tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42508039773796109982024-03-13T09:24:05.998-07:00館子˙彧馨的飲食指南嗜辣、重口味、非常主觀的指南。完全不推薦看倌按圖索驥Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.comBlogger47125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-10320079622685237442021-08-04T01:04:00.000-07:002021-08-04T01:04:48.978-07:00《食光新加坡》 大上海餐廳<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p6b-DNFV0qc/YQpDIHUwjDI/AAAAAAAAXZY/J8zcAKp8YOco4-hRDrewn_IUhCy68PeXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4165.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1529" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p6b-DNFV0qc/YQpDIHUwjDI/AAAAAAAAXZY/J8zcAKp8YOco4-hRDrewn_IUhCy68PeXgCLcBGAsYHQ/w478-h640/IMG_4165.jpg" width="478" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"> Copyright © Jas Chen</span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "PMingLiU",serif; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">初到新加坡時,食物的多樣性還很缺乏,除了南洋菜、泰國料理,大約還有一些韓式或日本料理能挑,所以不得不時常挽起自家袖子,下廚做羹湯。近年來四川和東北館子興盛許多,味道都不壞,大約是移居此地的中國人多了,市場足夠。本地人愛上吃串串、烤魚、麻辣鍋的人亦所在多有,這類型的餐館越開越多。本來有辣菜日子就很好打發,不過不知道為什麼,最近非常想吃上海菜。</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "PMingLiU",serif; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">我的上海菜時期大約可以分為幾個階段,先是兒提時期,跟著外公去寶宮大戲院看電影,之後就順理成章去附近的銀翼吃江浙菜,雖然不是上海本幫菜色,但寶宮加上銀翼這個固定組合,往往還要搭配上長輩幾句上海情懷。然而寶宮戲院很早就沒了,銀翼倒是還在,味道比之從前記憶,竟如斑黃剝落的壁紙,色彩濃郁,氣味卻已消散在時光間。能記下的只有一碗煨得軟爛的麵條。倒是更大些,同外公一樣愛吃煨麵的老爹時常領著我去的上海鄉村,那還記憶新穎。估計不完全是時間短久之分,實是銀翼餐廳的裝潢太老舊,在還不算懂得吃的年歲裡變得更為斑駁罷?</span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "PMingLiU",serif; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">愛吃煨麵的老爹在上海鄉村點的都是燴刺參,每每都要特意囑咐要煨得爛一些。然而不管是煨麵或是刺參,都不為年幼偏好清脆牙口的我所愛,但醃篤鮮香濃白皙的湯頭,蔥燒鯽魚的香脆多卵,確實讓我念念不忘。</span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "PMingLiU",serif; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">出社會後,換成時常在外走跳得我帶父親去我自行淘來的上海老店嘗鮮,比如之前傳出關店風聲的永和上海小館,那蔥燒鯽魚就讓我們父女倆念念不忘。真正到上海吃上海菜就是很晚的事,第一次是在上海老站,吃甚麼記憶不深,因為餐廳是拿慈禧太后坐過的火車包廂來當餐室做噱頭,當時光顧著看,不記得吃了。餐廳本身很值得紀錄一番,也許日後可以補述。不過後來又試了上海老吉士飯店,就記得口味了,說起來要比台灣的上海菜更加的濃油醬赤,添鹹增甜,也是在那時吃到新菜</span>(<span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "PMingLiU",serif; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">如今不新了</span>)<span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "PMingLiU",serif; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">心太軟,甚為驚豔。後來老吉士來台灣開過一陣,帶著爸爸去吃了,可惜味道與本店相去甚遠。</span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-size: medium;">
<span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: PMingLiU, serif; line-height: 107%;">總之,想念上海菜了,或許也是想念拋下我們故去的老爹。我在網上努力尋找本地像樣的上海菜,在一眾資料中挑了大上海餐廳。</span></span></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7H5v37LAi2w/YQpD8NAjAdI/AAAAAAAAXZk/W4Q9bbzZe9MkbVZn0W0HTJ-oOnX66U6XgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4152.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7H5v37LAi2w/YQpD8NAjAdI/AAAAAAAAXZk/W4Q9bbzZe9MkbVZn0W0HTJ-oOnX66U6XgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_4152.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">大上海餐廳</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aLhS_Uid_TI/YQpD7_nq76I/AAAAAAAAXZg/Aavqe_IR2H8HygkeXQVmbxyGtsgWHXONACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aLhS_Uid_TI/YQpD7_nq76I/AAAAAAAAXZg/Aavqe_IR2H8HygkeXQVmbxyGtsgWHXONACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_4153.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">後面的舞台平常有表演<br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: PMingLiU, serif;">大上海在新加坡也是老字號,平時有專人駐唱懷舊老歌,看起來就像長輩們逢年過節最愛去的那種店。不過實際走入並不感到陳舊,自帶有種復刻式的新穎,彷彿時光停駐在紙醉金迷的大上海,不曾淡去,處處閃閃發亮如新。大堂挑高廣闊,舞台氣派有味,領班筆挺有禮,全然不似新加坡氣息。此處服務正是我最喜愛的那種,「高級的嘮嗑」。侍者領班一眾是有點年紀的大哥大姊,舉止得宜不過份,說起菜色如數家珍,動作是彬彬有禮的,話語中卻帶著家常的親近:「這魚要這樣燒好吃」、「夠了夠了若真吃不夠再加」、「別管菜單我就幫你點半份行的」</span>……<span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: PMingLiU, serif;">既不是過分自來熟的黏膩,也不會守禮到令人如坐針氈,正是我擅自稱謂的「高級嘮嗑」。</span><o:p></o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-top: 12pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: PMingLiU, serif;">抱著嘗鮮的心態,點了幾樣菜:</span><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: PMingLiU, serif;">變化自松鼠桂魚的松鼠鱈魚、醃篤鮮灌湯包、獅子頭、豌豆蝦仁、菜飯和酒釀湯圓,另外居然也賣烤鴨,因此也點了半隻。</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-top: 12pt; text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-top: 12pt; text-align: justify;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: PMingLiU, serif;"><span style="font-size: medium;">松鼠桂魚用了鱈魚做,分量變成了幾小口,當然,原本菜名是指精細刀工刻肉油炸後,形似松鼠而得名,換成鱈魚後不像松鼠了,反而像朵花,改成松花鱈魚要名實相符一點。鱈魚肉細,更考驗刀工,然而成品相當漂亮,可見刀工之精湛。醬汁如原菜一般酸甜,外子十分喜歡。不過因為換成了鱈魚,少了河鮮中的一點野味,只餘肉質細緻,如果不甚喜愛魚味的人,這道很值得推薦。</span></span></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G2LQD22tCmg/YQpEpi18nTI/AAAAAAAAXZ4/T8I06t1nIhII1CWAtl2TdQvKN4NLU4ZFACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G2LQD22tCmg/YQpEpi18nTI/AAAAAAAAXZ4/T8I06t1nIhII1CWAtl2TdQvKN4NLU4ZFACLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/IMG_4154.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">松鼠鱈魚<br /></span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-top: 12pt; text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-top: 12pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: PMingLiU, serif; font-size: large;">至於醃篤鮮灌湯包就有點味淡。本來想三個人點一整碗的醃篤鮮太多,所以只點了一隻醃篤鮮灌湯包試試。畢竟鮮少見用醃篤鮮做湯包的店家。不過湯包雖然帶了鮮味,有一點醃篤鮮的意味,但味道淺淡,大約提味的鹹肉量太少,燉得時間也不夠。下次還是直接點一碗湯看看如何。</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-top: 12pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: PMingLiU, serif;">菜飯有鍋巴香,菜香氣稍嫌淺了些,這要趁熱食用才好。獅子頭濃腴適口,別出心裁用了松露油,香氣融合在赤醬之中,頗有新意,且非常調和。至於蝦仁豌豆,這就很令人懷念了。父親進江浙館子必點的一道菜之一便是雞絲豌豆,這道菜自帶清香,視覺上白綠相間也很清新,油潤爽口具有。這菜最麻煩的要屬豌豆仁的選取,必須是米粒大小的豌豆仁,做出來的味道才香,口感才對。但許多店偷工,乾脆用上大的甜豆,炒起來就全不是那個味道了不說,豆子也偏硬,口感全然不對。之所以點化自雞絲豌豆的蝦仁豌豆,也是想看看這家老字號的用料是否地道。上菜結果令人滿意,而光這個就足夠讓我做回頭客了啊。</span></span></p></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ch7_xH3BGmw/YQpFHabFJ7I/AAAAAAAAXaA/ZqZbI4mFajknwKQ25_V14OeYgXPlwfsNACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ch7_xH3BGmw/YQpFHabFJ7I/AAAAAAAAXaA/ZqZbI4mFajknwKQ25_V14OeYgXPlwfsNACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_4155.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">灌湯包</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QpI32QGijjs/YQpFHdgdMRI/AAAAAAAAXaE/qpuVysA9e_kItQ-yAg6k2Vv4J2xFhgppgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QpI32QGijjs/YQpFHdgdMRI/AAAAAAAAXaE/qpuVysA9e_kItQ-yAg6k2Vv4J2xFhgppgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_4156.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">蝦仁豌豆,豌豆對了,但實在太少,真正的雞絲豌豆是滿盤綠油油啊</span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PpdIjP9CrZE/YQpFHZ1y2ZI/AAAAAAAAXaI/p_v2RPfQT5ArFkryCoqhMaP0UDIa1udGwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PpdIjP9CrZE/YQpFHZ1y2ZI/AAAAAAAAXaI/p_v2RPfQT5ArFkryCoqhMaP0UDIa1udGwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_4158.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">用松露油調味的獅子頭</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2JJuWZ0II70/YQpFIn4a6RI/AAAAAAAAXaM/mpCXlVRy-pEQYReA2vaT_8XyORbOTVj0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2JJuWZ0II70/YQpFIn4a6RI/AAAAAAAAXaM/mpCXlVRy-pEQYReA2vaT_8XyORbOTVj0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_4159.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">鍋氣足菜香略缺的菜飯</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XJNk8Elf5qQ/YQpFJLifHoI/AAAAAAAAXaQ/k3KkoQYYupYXTG3TgYyeqz9yA7D7QSHQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4162.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XJNk8Elf5qQ/YQpFJLifHoI/AAAAAAAAXaQ/k3KkoQYYupYXTG3TgYyeqz9yA7D7QSHQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_4162.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">北京烤鴨,上海菜賣這個有點不知所謂,而且上菜時僅微溫。皮相當薄,脆是夠脆,但咬起來太薄沒有口感。肉的部分調味太淡,但足夠嫩,據說這是招牌菜色,但如果不是太久沒嘗到,我應該也不會在上海館子點北京烤鴨</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kkmk_iUy4VY/YQpFJepVtJI/AAAAAAAAXaU/SoWDe6aNhgM5yebsi8r2TqrSy0_-Us9OACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4163.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kkmk_iUy4VY/YQpFJepVtJI/AAAAAAAAXaU/SoWDe6aNhgM5yebsi8r2TqrSy0_-Us9OACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_4163.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">鴨肉</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fRYhzmFL5b0/YQpFJrnh0sI/AAAAAAAAXaY/czH9j1u804ADmY0Gv5DPikjjUSFUGwXeACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fRYhzmFL5b0/YQpFJrnh0sI/AAAAAAAAXaY/czH9j1u804ADmY0Gv5DPikjjUSFUGwXeACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_4164.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">表現正常的酒釀湯圓</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoBodyText"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span lang="ZH-TW" style="font-family: "PMingLiU",serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">聽隔桌一位爺爺級饕客點菜,才知道大上海也能預定鲥魚,這我只在台灣的冶春茶舍和父親吃過一次,其魚鱗下那片豐腴細嫩的油脂香氣,之鮮之美,回想起來還口齒留香。這下不做回頭客也不行了,慎重留下自己的電話,交代店家一有鲥魚務必要通知。只是新加坡馬上又進入半封城,禁止堂食,因此至今仍緣慳一面哪!</span><o:p></o:p></span></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-53586980338701610442014-03-04T08:34:00.002-08:002014-03-04T08:34:18.168-08:00《追櫻》《美食˙總整理篇》大阪的煮串<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GA6MD7yW96w/UxX94Y_1f_I/AAAAAAAAG-0/NuLk9NnkZuM/s1600/IMG_4676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GA6MD7yW96w/UxX94Y_1f_I/AAAAAAAAG-0/NuLk9NnkZuM/s1600/IMG_4676.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AcIJ1LPGFuQ/UxX-Ew4MDLI/AAAAAAAAG_A/DY_EUtx8I1Y/s1600/DSC05658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AcIJ1LPGFuQ/UxX-Ew4MDLI/AAAAAAAAG_A/DY_EUtx8I1Y/s1600/DSC05658.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GA6MD7yW96w/UxX94Y_1f_I/AAAAAAAAG-0/NuLk9NnkZuM/s1600/IMG_4676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Copyright © Jas Chen</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> </span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">雖然是花了相當心力製作的書,受限於資源很少,頁數限制嚴格,《<a href="http://www.books.com.tw/products/0010574117">追櫻</a>》一書很可惜地還是有許多遺憾。比如說,關於吃,就幾乎一點都沒有提到。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">不過,即使櫻花再美,一路上總不可能不吃不喝,特別是花了許多力氣千里迢迢趕去,偏碰上櫻花沒開、下大雨、花已經凋零等種種糟心狀況時</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">雖然沒寫出來,但其實碰上很多</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">,吃更是可能的唯一安慰。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">在大阪時,心情起初很糟,特別去喫了有名的大阪庶民小吃炸串,也未見好。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">「要不要試試這個?」招呼的大姐指了菜單上的本店味自慢給我看。那天又是雨天,我一半是為了躲雨才在不是開飯時間進了小店。大姐指的菜是</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">三串</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">,炸串、燒串、煮串。這個時候吃不下這麼多,炸串吃過了,燒串約莫就是串燒烤肉,只有煮串,聽都沒有聽過。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">單點了一盤煮串,送上來感覺就像把天婦羅串起來的一盤食物,湯汁淋漓,又濃又香。我吸哩呼嚕吃了起來,暖暖熱熱地,一點一點去了這陰雨天的冷氣、潮氣和不見櫻花的怨氣。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">(第二張圖是後來在別間店點的烤串)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-38022970424075399932014-01-09T03:40:00.000-08:002017-10-16T22:37:27.534-07:00新加坡 JAAN及Andre(江振誠)餐廳食後記(下)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t0D7h0EVdfs/Us6HuSvkkOI/AAAAAAAAG8E/AVHYi4x9Ctw/s1600/DSC08038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t0D7h0EVdfs/Us6HuSvkkOI/AAAAAAAAG8E/AVHYi4x9Ctw/s1600/DSC08038.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
圖說:ANDRE的菜單,特色是會標上日期,紀念日來很有保留價值<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Copyright </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif";">©</span><span lang="EN-US"> Jas Chen</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">如果不是因為請客的人堅持一定要看到食記,這篇「下」集可能不會出現,因為期待已久的江振誠餐廳,實話說,沒有那麼吸引我。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">一樣話說在先,因為江振誠很有名,造訪前有認真作功課,網路上的評價和媒體報導一片大好,幾乎可以說沒有人不驚艷,連我自己在臉書上說在江振誠餐廳吃飯,都有朋友在下方推「是很貼心的餐廳」,所以我個人的用餐品質不太妙也許真是偶一發生的例外,只是很可惜,這樣的價位很難多嘗試幾次以確認一般水準。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">進入主題前先來說幾個不甚滿意的地方好了。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 18.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-para-margin-left: 0gd; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US">1.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">上菜有一種匆促感。</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 18.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-para-margin-left: 0gd; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US">2.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜色較少。</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 18.0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-para-margin-left: 0gd; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US">3.<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">服務不夠仔細貼心。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">簡單說,一頓要價</span><span lang="EN-US">128</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">新幣,加稅加服務費後要</span><span lang="EN-US">160</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">新幣以上的午餐</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">尚不含酒、水、咖啡</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,正常狀況並不是很多人都能把它當作一個普通的商業午餐來享用,在</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">每一道菜都以法式料理應該有的呼吸節奏來上菜,所以一頓午餐在沒有刻意要求的前提下大約吃了三個半到四個小時。在</span><span lang="EN-US">ANDRE</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">每一道菜都上得很緊湊,即使加上飯罷另外要了咖啡聊天放空,離開時大約也只花了兩個小時多一點。我平時也討厭慢吞吞,不過會來這樣等級的餐廳,是願意多花時間享受的。這點殊為可惜。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">純以價格論,</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的價錢比</span><span lang="EN-US">ANDRE</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">要便宜</span><span lang="EN-US">10</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">新幣,且包含咖啡或茶。甜點也包含搭配咖啡的小點心,正式菜色有五道;</span><span lang="EN-US">ANDRE</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的食材未必比較珍貴,份量也較小,正式道數四道,也不包含咖啡。當然,江振誠自己出來開業所能使用的資源絕不可能跟有大飯店為靠山的</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">相比,成本上可能困難點,如果最重要的口味能讓人眼睛大睜,這段話也就不會出現了。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">服務。這或許是與他人經驗相比出入最大的。</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">本來嘛,口味這種事情很主觀,彼之珍饈可能是此之毒鴆,可是服務不然,總有一點客觀性。我倒不是指</span><span lang="EN-US">ANDRE</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的餐廳服務不佳,這還不至於,但以這種水準的餐廳,服務不到位卻是事實。上文提到過,以相同名義訂位,</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">送上慶祝的小蛋糕,江振誠餐廳甚麼都沒有。雖然不是稀罕蛋糕,但是身為客人說感受上沒有不同是不可能的。此外,因為多點了咖啡,侍者</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">應該也是法國人</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">在送上咖啡時,指著形狀特別的咖啡杯「很有禮貌」地說:「這是設計師設計的咖啡杯,請您小心使用</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">原文為英文</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。」</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這怎麼會是餐廳侍者該告誡客人的話呢?不管說話本身的詞句多優雅動聽,態度多謙卑溫和,這都不是可以跟客人說的話。如果怕摔壞就不要拿來作餐具,怎麼還有告誡客人小心的說法?我在輕井澤的茜屋咖啡使用一套</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">杯子加盤子</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">要價十幾萬日幣的咖啡杯、或巴黎銀塔餐廳隨便也要幾百歐元的純銀水杯、甚至台灣的有名的「台南擔仔麵」海鮮餐廳用她們全套的凡賽斯餐具吃飯,都不曾聽過這樣的話,為什麼</span><span lang="EN-US">ANDRE</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">作不到?</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">有人網誌上說這組咖啡杯是江振誠本人自己作的,好啦,這也算是一種名家</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,另外,很妙的是每一道菜上菜的侍者幾乎都不一樣,看起來並沒有清楚的責任區塊區分。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">當然,這種種的不滿意都可能有令人滿意的解釋,可能我們比較倒楣點也說不定,畢竟有人為慶生去也有吃到贈送的甜點、也幾乎每個人都能跟江振誠聊上兩句,只是可惜都沒有在我身上發生呀。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">最重要的還是味道本身,所以言歸正傳</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">正傳大概不會太長</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gmV4feLx3Bk/Us6IRqSKabI/AAAAAAAAG8M/IKV2WUm3y-Y/s1600/DSC08047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gmV4feLx3Bk/Us6IRqSKabI/AAAAAAAAG8M/IKV2WUm3y-Y/s1600/DSC08047.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:開胃前菜</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">ANDRE</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">和</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">一樣,附有開胃小點</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不在菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">開胃小點的概念很像最近台灣流行的盆栽甜品,端上來的盆子裡一汪狀似泥土的東西,中間擺上兩顆彷彿小紅蘿蔔的裝飾品。我第一次吃盆栽甜品是在</span><span lang="EN-US">Season</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的店,想法很有趣,作為泥土的巧克力碎餅和薄荷冰淇淋有點太甜,所以一看到這道菜就感覺「拿來當開胃菜適合嗎?」</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不過事實上還好,泥土部分是咖哩巧克力,咖哩味道強烈,巧克力濃度高,並不甜。中間兩小圓是肉片裹著某種根莖類植物,吃起來像洋芋。我最大的失誤是將</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">泥土</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">裹著小球吃,結果咖哩巧克力的氣味太強烈,以至於其它的滋味都吃不出來。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LTDeCfYku1M/Us6IpNm_rVI/AAAAAAAAG8c/qtCDf9Z1WXo/s1600/DSC08049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LTDeCfYku1M/Us6IpNm_rVI/AAAAAAAAG8c/qtCDf9Z1WXo/s1600/DSC08049.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">圖說:擺盤美麗的油封番茄</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: , serif;">前菜是油封番茄和甜蝦韃塔</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: , serif;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">同樣是油封的作法,油封番茄並沒有像油封彩虹鱒一樣令人驚艷,吃起來跟醃漬過的剝皮番茄口感差距不大,番茄香氣卻淡了許多,也許番茄不是很適合以油封</span>
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">方式作?番茄之下的甜蝦份量少得可憐,基本上沒有口感可言。整體的滋味都過淡,除了擺盤很美之外印象不深。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--xse749tIEM/Us6IpAeSiEI/AAAAAAAAG8k/LSAjbiQvfNU/s1600/DSC08050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--xse749tIEM/Us6IpAeSiEI/AAAAAAAAG8k/LSAjbiQvfNU/s1600/DSC08050.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> 圖說:煎鱈魚</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">海鮮主菜是煎鱈魚</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">嗯,是另一道印象不深的菜色,就是煎鱈魚,灑上點醬汁泡沫,當然不難吃,但也有點平淡無奇。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pmf9O5QSbuY/Us6IpMOMmwI/AAAAAAAAG8g/z67Zj9gYtfw/s1600/DSC08057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pmf9O5QSbuY/Us6IpMOMmwI/AAAAAAAAG8g/z67Zj9gYtfw/s1600/DSC08057.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:美味的Memory</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">再來這道是唯一有「命名」的招牌菜,</span><span lang="EN-US">Memory(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這道據說是</span><span lang="EN-US">1997</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">年江振誠還在巴黎時的創作,以雙層玻璃盅盛裝,看似布丁。面上薄薄一層是松露茲味濃厚的濃汁,下方是口感像超嫩蒸蛋的鵝肝。這是最值得讚賞的一道菜,好吃到想問能不能外賣,果然是很適合叫</span><span lang="EN-US">Memory</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的菜色。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeR2bF85nlc/Us6Iqw4ky4I/AAAAAAAAG84/jShhpN1b_Eg/s1600/DSC08062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeR2bF85nlc/Us6Iqw4ky4I/AAAAAAAAG84/jShhpN1b_Eg/s1600/DSC08062.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">圖說:主菜的野豬肉</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">進入主菜,主菜大概可以被稱作「野豬肉雙吃」</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這道菜很有趣的以燴煮豬肩肉和類似廣式臘味裡的燒肉成盤。豬肩肉薄片味濃,燒肉則<strike>比我吃過的任何一家燒肉都好</strike>不壞(修正原因是我還是在名不見經傳的廣式料理小店中吃到更美味的啦),不過是不是足以滿足對這樣餐廳的主菜幻想,或許還有待考量。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4TeWrK6uqIk/Us6IrJNludI/AAAAAAAAG88/OBDQQkSMDRk/s1600/DSC08077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4TeWrK6uqIk/Us6IrJNludI/AAAAAAAAG88/OBDQQkSMDRk/s1600/DSC08077.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ti7v2Eh6aZ8/Us6Ira0g3MI/AAAAAAAAG9A/Gb-mKcsCq7U/s1600/DSC08082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ti7v2Eh6aZ8/Us6Ira0g3MI/AAAAAAAAG9A/Gb-mKcsCq7U/s1600/DSC08082.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
圖說:Floating island</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">下一道是</span><span lang="EN-US">Floating island</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,可以說是變形的去口味冰沙</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不在菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這道菜很小,但滋味多變,主要是一個小球體放在液體中飄浮,也是放在雙層玻璃咖啡杯中。球體的上半部的椰子口味的蛋白霜,灑上糖化過的香茅碎片,下半部是某種口味的凝凍,因為入口即化,一時分辨不出滋味,液體的口感和氣味都像銀耳湯。雖然是不在菜單上小得不得了的一道菜,但我認為這道菜非常值得一書,口味多層次,料理方式合併中西,很能代表江振誠的背景。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--0gaz-uBd_Q/Us6IsU_rA9I/AAAAAAAAG9M/T16dQTivi-w/s1600/DSC08087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--0gaz-uBd_Q/Us6IsU_rA9I/AAAAAAAAG9M/T16dQTivi-w/s1600/DSC08087.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
圖說:甜點<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zA6lI0BrcIs/Us6Isg0nf7I/AAAAAAAAG9Q/nyqxOdYmm_Y/s1600/DSC08107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zA6lI0BrcIs/Us6Isg0nf7I/AAAAAAAAG9Q/nyqxOdYmm_Y/s1600/DSC08107.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:另外付費的咖啡</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">最後是甜點,</span><span lang="EN-US">ANDRE</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">與</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">端出賣相幾乎一樣的巧克力甜點</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不在菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">嚴格說起來不是太不好的甜品,只是對我來說太甜,另外也稱不上有特色,跟JAAN比差了十萬八千里,完全沒有層次感可言。我猜江大廚不算太擅長甜品,而餐廳約莫沒有甜點主廚。到這裡,菜已全部上完,另外單點了咖啡,也沒有附上搭配的小點心。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">江振誠餐廳整體來說並不是不好,可是如果只去這一家,對於我來說只是證明新加坡的餐廳價錢就是高一截,也可能會對新加坡的高價餐廳失去探訪的興趣,不過雖說我對</span><span lang="EN-US">ANDRE</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的回頭率確實會低,但應不至於評價過差。只是因為先去了</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,感受相距太大,說實話,花差不多的錢為什麼不去</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">呢?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體" , "serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">當然還是必須再三聲明,江振誠的店每日菜色都不同,您去時運氣說不定比我好唷。</span> </div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-83301214797353316722014-01-05T03:54:00.000-08:002014-01-05T03:54:21.411-08:00新加坡 JAAN及Andre(江振誠)餐廳食後記(上)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zZeYJzr4mZw/UslEIRklWOI/AAAAAAAAG6E/nmjtf_5yT20/s1600/DSC07904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zZeYJzr4mZw/UslEIRklWOI/AAAAAAAAG6E/nmjtf_5yT20/s640/DSC07904.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
圖說:午間套餐五道菜菜單<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Copyright </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "新細明體","serif";">©</span><span lang="EN-US"> Jas Chen</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">雖然不存比較的心態,但因為造訪時間相去不過一天,又都是中午、菜的道數差距不大,價格只差</span><span lang="EN-US">10</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">新幣,所以當成比較文看或許也可以。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不過先寫在前,江振誠的菜色由於會因為當天到訪客人國籍、食材新鮮度等等因素而調整,且原則上一天一份菜單不能選,所以多少有點運氣;</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">雖然也可以說是固定的菜單,不過不是天天換菜,所以不喜歡這季菜單可以等下一季再去,或許可以避掉某些不喜歡的食材</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">或特地去吃某些菜色</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">寫在前之二,</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">和江振誠是有前後關係的。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的前主廚就是江振誠,在他手下</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">一度躍升為亞洲餐廳評比第五名</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">目前</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的排名為亞洲第二十二名</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,不過目前</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的主廚</span><span lang="EN-US">Julien Royer</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">相當年輕,有這樣的水準相當厲害。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">首先嘗試</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">以裝潢論</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">相當糟糕,天花板弄成不規則鋁板配上詭異燈光已經不太討喜,還有加上三條直挺挺彷彿巨大玻璃蠕蟲的燈飾縱穿整個天花板簡直可怕。可喜的是由於餐聽不大,三面環窗,而位於</span><span lang="EN-US">Swissotel</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">史丹福瑞是酒店的頂樓可算是新加坡視野最好的地方,坐在窗邊視線都被吸引去看野景了,不容易受到可怕裝潢的荼毒。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">中午菜單選擇不多,共有三道菜、五道菜或七道菜的選擇。三道菜還可以挑選</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">選擇有限</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,五道菜和七道菜都是固定的,只有一種。價格分別為</span><span lang="EN-US">68</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">、</span><span lang="EN-US">118</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">和</span><span lang="EN-US">158</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">新幣,五道菜以上價格都包含茶或咖啡。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這樣等級的餐廳上來的菜色通常會比菜單陳列的多,</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">在這方面很能滿足食客「賺到了」的心態。首先擺上的是開胃小點</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不在菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ylIqqaOzfrU/UslElbfWr1I/AAAAAAAAG6M/FhdYSOKd5mk/s1600/DSC07885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ylIqqaOzfrU/UslElbfWr1I/AAAAAAAAG6M/FhdYSOKd5mk/s640/DSC07885.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:開胃三小點</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">開胃小點的擺盤很趣味,在鵝卵石上磨出四道切口插入南瓜口味的薄脆,另外附上特製沾醬,主盤上的咖哩餃、乳酪薄餅口味皆中規中矩。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JAGqXSjPHZs/UslE-vghbCI/AAAAAAAAG6U/FTXS7VF-Kgk/s1600/DSC07891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JAGqXSjPHZs/UslE-vghbCI/AAAAAAAAG6U/FTXS7VF-Kgk/s640/DSC07891.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">圖說:湯品</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">再來上的是湯品</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不在菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">湯品很小份,應該算是野菇卡布奇諾濃湯,盛裝在丹麥品牌</span><span lang="EN-US">Bodum</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">雙層咖啡杯內</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">江振誠餐廳也有使用類似容器,但似乎並非該品牌,或許是近期的流行,我記得以前出這樣湯品時多半會放在傳統</span><span lang="EN-US">expresso</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">白瓷咖啡杯內</span> <span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。我第一次喝到這樣的卡布濃湯是二十年前在台灣的經典法樂琪餐廳,湯送上來時面上浮著一層泡沫,甚至還有狀似肉桂末的番紅花粉,完全就像一杯咖啡。這樣的湯多半很濃郁。</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這道並不在菜單內的湯完全勾起當時喝這樣的湯的驚喜回憶,野菇香氣衝鼻,喝完後並不膩味,還有甘甜感,湯中給的野菇有相當份量,雖然失去視覺美感,但增添口感層次。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LDR3RDqNnkQ/UslFO3t2aBI/AAAAAAAAG6c/ql2VOW1qez8/s1600/DSC07899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LDR3RDqNnkQ/UslFO3t2aBI/AAAAAAAAG6c/ql2VOW1qez8/s640/DSC07899.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:鵪鶉鵝肝捲</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">前菜</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">是鵪鶉鵝肝捲。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這其實是很美味的搭配法,如果是第一次嘗試,我應該會很喜歡。鵪鶉的風味細緻,鵝肝的滋味醇厚,因為這道菜是涼前菜,配上義大利陳醋提味,不至於過膩。可惜鵪鶉肉薄鵝肝厚,鵪鶉的風味略被壓過。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">我第一次吃到鵪鶉和鵝肝的搭配是在紐約位於</span><span lang="EN-US">74</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">街和第三大道的</span><span lang="EN-US">Payard</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,這家以高級甜點聞名的店鋪曾經推出所謂的</span><span lang="EN-US">”pre-theatre menu”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,給準備去看歌劇或百老匯的客人的</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">早晚餐</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。主菜內包含一道烤鵪鶉,是在鵪鶉肚內填塞鵝肝醬,於鵪鶉外皮上薄薄糖醬後燒烤,最後澆上無花果醬汁。鵪鶉的纖細的味道因為高溫烘烤的關係被逼出,內裡的鵝肝更增添香氣而不搶味,非常令人懷念。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">我一直在尋找相同滋味,</span><span lang="EN-US">07</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">年和</span><span lang="EN-US">12</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">年回紐約時更特別登門,菜單卻已經沒有這道菜式了。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-srtgb9q4EFg/UslFfcnTujI/AAAAAAAAG6k/ef0T2iQb0Io/s1600/DSC07907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-srtgb9q4EFg/UslFfcnTujI/AAAAAAAAG6k/ef0T2iQb0Io/s640/DSC07907.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">圖說:winter garden溫沙拉</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">下一道是名為</span><span lang="EN-US">winter garden</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的溫沙拉</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的主廚很提倡當令菜色,雖然在四季皆夏的新加坡要找當地</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">當令</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">食材根本天方夜譚,不過進口食材可以選擇的很多。這道</span><span lang="EN-US">winter garden</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">就使用了許多特殊疏菜,菜單中以</span><span lang="EN-US">forgotten
vegetables</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">一詞帶過,所謂的</span><span lang="EN-US">forgotten vegetables</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">泛指</span><span lang="EN-US">17~19</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">世紀常用但如今不常被使用的疏菜。</span><span lang="EN-US">winter garden</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">包含大約十多種疏菜,其中</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">被遺忘的疏菜</span><span lang="EN-US">”</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">大約有菊芋、甘露子、無菁甘藍等。我大多都是第一次吃到,非常驚奇,其中甘露子形狀像冬蟲夏草般一節節,回來一查發現又名寶塔菜,很有趣。口感為根莖類植物,更爽脆些。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">值得一提的,是同樣講究「當令」的江振誠同樣也在菜單裡使用</span><span lang="EN-US">forgotten vegetables</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">為主菜的配菜。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qNyHhP5djQo/UslFwQTVwWI/AAAAAAAAG6s/uWJn0N5Vjsg/s1600/DSC07913.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qNyHhP5djQo/UslFwQTVwWI/AAAAAAAAG6s/uWJn0N5Vjsg/s640/DSC07913.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:美味的油封彩虹鱒</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">進入海鮮主菜,油封彩虹鱒</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">彩虹鱒其實也是鮭魚的一種,不過吃起來沒有鮭魚的特殊氣味,屬高級魚種。雖然吃過幾次油封鴨,但從來沒有試過油封海鮮。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">油封的作法通常式將食材完全浸泡在油內,低溫燉煮,這樣的作法會讓肉質鮮嫩。彩虹鱒端上桌時以視覺來看完全就是生鮭魚的感覺,老實說剛下刀時有點害怕,不過……這是我吃過最最好吃的魚了!一點都不誇張啊。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">鱒魚近似炙燒生魚片面上炙燒過的那層表面,但去除掉微焦後的口感,每一口都很美味,熟度亦很平均,調味細緻,更不用說橘粉色魚肉配上花椰菜醬汁的青綠色的美麗。魚下墊著小塊的鹿兒島豬肉,以焦糖味增調味,應該也很棒,不過我只記得太搶戲的油封彩虹鱒。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQq2FcgnMxk/UslGAKKgXQI/AAAAAAAAG60/oZP9H5aNfHk/s1600/DSC07933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQq2FcgnMxk/UslGAKKgXQI/AAAAAAAAG60/oZP9H5aNfHk/s640/DSC07933.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:鹿肉主菜</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">主菜是炙燒鹿肉</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">以之前的米其林經驗,除非砸大錢單點,套餐中比較讓人滿意或特別的以前菜和甜點居多,主菜普普的不算少見,所以對於</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">能端上的主菜充滿好奇。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜盤上鹿肉兩塊的熟度不同,其中一塊以芹菜奶油及些許辣醬調味,另一塊則是紅酒醬汁。稍偏鹹,但因為是野味,很適合,其實還不壞。主菜最大的問題的風味的不統一,配菜的蜜梨充滿香水氣,無菁甘藍則搭配甜酸味很重的藍莓醬,分開吃都充滿特色,合在一盤就有點搞不懂主廚的想法。或許是因為鹿肉調味重,為了搭配所以配菜也都下手重了。不過組合起來並不調和,頗有「三足鼎立」的感覺。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IHxNndKEwBU/UslGOfadZZI/AAAAAAAAG68/UphK7c5LkAA/s1600/DSC07938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IHxNndKEwBU/UslGOfadZZI/AAAAAAAAG68/UphK7c5LkAA/s640/DSC07938.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:加點的黑松露起司</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">按照菜單,此時是上黑松露起司的時候,侍者特別來詢問是否需要加點,因為這道需要多加</span><span lang="EN-US">20</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">新幣。老實說這道五道菜色的餐份量實在很多,我完全沒有加點的興趣,不過食伴很有嘗新的「肚量」,所以點了一份,我也有幸分上兩口。黑松露起司以外,另搭配一份黑松露冰淇淋。冰淇淋也好起司也好,松露很捨得給,滋味不用說,非常好。起司能完全包住黑松露的香氣,就算不愛起司的人也建議試試看,相當棒。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bn2E_Hqj_iM/UslGeUe0iMI/AAAAAAAAG7E/X-C2VgI4lLk/s1600/DSC07941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bn2E_Hqj_iM/UslGeUe0iMI/AAAAAAAAG7E/X-C2VgI4lLk/s640/DSC07941.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">圖說:去味冰沙</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這時間侍者端上來清口味的果粒冰沙</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不在菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,包裝很可愛,氣味微酸,很討喜也很細心。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">終於到了甜點巧克力塔</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">菜單內</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1q9eHox2AE0/UslGtr8oDkI/AAAAAAAAG7M/dsGc9eQr6ZU/s1600/DSC07942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1q9eHox2AE0/UslGtr8oDkI/AAAAAAAAG7M/dsGc9eQr6ZU/s640/DSC07942.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:巧克力塔</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">侍者端上來後澆上半融的巧克力慕斯,說明這道甜點是不同的巧克力組成。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">光是看上去,這甜點就應該甜得不像話,因為到此已經吃得很飽,所以拖了一陣才肯試。嗯,跟想像完全不一樣。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">雖然名為巧克力塔,其實這道甜點是沒有塔皮的,而是由各種甜度不同、口感不同的巧克力組成,溫潤的巧克力醬下是巧克力碎片、生巧克力、巧克力慕斯、巧克力奶油鬆餅、巧克力冰淇淋,層次很豐富,甜度驚人的低,香氣濃而不膩,非常驚艷,像是一口吃盡巧克力的各種型態。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-czJy6yRrrhA/UslHCMj44jI/AAAAAAAAG7U/ZGmnjkhTOCs/s1600/DSC07955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-czJy6yRrrhA/UslHCMj44jI/AAAAAAAAG7U/ZGmnjkhTOCs/s640/DSC07955.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
圖說:蛋糕是JAAN送的<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dnNVlR2hnUo/UslHCQQlfAI/AAAAAAAAG7c/Rk9BksgziAk/s1600/DSC07966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="392" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dnNVlR2hnUo/UslHCQQlfAI/AAAAAAAAG7c/Rk9BksgziAk/s640/DSC07966.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
圖說:配咖啡的點心<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PLVjZdt7DKY/UslHCU0q6rI/AAAAAAAAG7Y/i_3Tnpv2uT8/s1600/DSC07949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PLVjZdt7DKY/UslHCU0q6rI/AAAAAAAAG7Y/i_3Tnpv2uT8/s640/DSC07949.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">圖說:咖啡包含在套餐內(江振誠的要另付費)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">最後端上咖啡,和配咖啡的小點。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">侍者澆上水,盛小點巧克力棒棒糖之一的杯子就冒出白煙,是以乾冰作裝飾,另外也是讓巧克力棒棒糖不要太早融化。侍者說這個棒棒糖樣的點心是主廚的招牌甜點,招牌居然是配咖啡的小點心,這還真特別。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">三樣小點除了棒棒糖,還有榛果巧克力、棉花糖覆盆子口味的小糕點,表現都佳。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">招牌棒棒糖請一次完全入口,因為巧克力只是外層,內裡是羅絲瑪莉香料水,果然很特別。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">因為當初訂位時有說明是某種慶祝,</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">特別送上一個小蛋糕。當然當天已經完全吃不下,所以打包回來。寫文同時正在第二次品嘗</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">因為份量不小一次還吃不完呢</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,蛋糕層次多變風味特殊,並不因為是贈品而馬虎。我想巧克力甜點是</span><span lang="EN-US">JAAN</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的強項也說不定。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">附帶一提,以同樣名義訂位的</span><span lang="EN-US">Andre</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">江振誠餐廳甚麼也沒附,基於這點屆時如果下筆狠些說不定是心理因素?</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">笑</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-21791225061643540152013-07-15T08:40:00.000-07:002013-07-15T08:40:40.303-07:00直島˙貝尼斯之家的墨魚咖哩飯<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BmJ4zwegfPc/UeQXPumtbRI/AAAAAAAAGsI/Pbmx7niCJ5g/s1600/%E5%9C%96%E8%AA%AA%EF%BC%9A%E5%A2%A8%E9%AD%9A%E5%92%96%E5%93%A9%E9%A3%AF.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BmJ4zwegfPc/UeQXPumtbRI/AAAAAAAAGsI/Pbmx7niCJ5g/s640/%E5%9C%96%E8%AA%AA%EF%BC%9A%E5%A2%A8%E9%AD%9A%E5%92%96%E5%93%A9%E9%A3%AF.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Copyright </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "新細明體","serif";">© </span><span lang="EN-US">Jas Chen</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">因為一些事,最近常思索關於印度這個國家,想著想著,咖哩的味道不由自主地就會出現。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">實際造訪印度以前,我是非常喜歡印度咖哩的。不過自從印度回來,我足足有一整年沒肯碰印度咖哩。泰國的紅、綠咖哩?沒問題,日本蘋果甜膩的咖哩?也行,總之就是不要碰香料繁重的印度咖哩。不是開玩笑,在印度完全就是靠吃咖哩過活,不管吃甚麼,就算是高級西餐廳也一樣,料理端上來一定有濃重咖哩味,不要幾天,全身上下每一個毛細孔都像浸泡在咖哩湯十年相似,香料粉末彷彿黏在鼻腔,無論如何也揮不去。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">所以我再沒吃過印度咖哩,自從印度回來後。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不過,有個咖哩卻是在心中想念好久好久的。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">《追櫻》那一年,我也登上直島,在貝尼斯之家美術館飯店住了一晚,那一晚很有可說,住在</span><span lang="EN-US">"</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">美術館</span><span lang="EN-US">"</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">中的感受無可比擬</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">雖然受限於篇幅,本來打算放入書中的章節最後付梓時還是取消</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,而美術館飯店二樓,那間小小的紀念品店,就是讓我魂牽夢縈的咖哩飯端上的地方。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">那間紀念品兼咖啡館的小小空間,總共只提供兩種餐點:義大利麵和咖哩飯。老實說,兩種都不是平常我會選擇的食物。可是那天很餓,除非要吃貴得要命的飯店正式餐點</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">而晚餐已經不得不吃了</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,荒僻的美術館飯店並沒有別的選擇。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">點了咖哩飯,因為菜單上寫著</span><span lang="EN-US">"</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">墨魚咖哩飯</span><span lang="EN-US">"</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">「至少沒吃過墨魚的咖哩飯。」這樣想著,隨便點了其實不貴的餐點。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">端上來就是這樣黑黑一盤了。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">鮮甜的墨魚汁香味誘人,與咖哩和諧搭調,醬瓜酸脆,是完全出乎意料的好味道。我與希波飛快地分吃完,餘味殘留在唇齒間久久不去。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">究竟是因為真的那麼美味?還是因為餓壞了?或是因為分吃而特別香甜呢?我分辨不出。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">於是在想著印度時,腦子勾勒出那片蔚藍的瀨戶內海,那是吃著墨魚咖哩時眼前的景色。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">或許,美景也加了不少分吧?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">有人知道哪裡還有賣墨魚咖哩飯嗎?其實鋪陳了這麼久,我想問的只是這個而已呀</span><span lang="EN-US">)</span></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-29739980972085432332013-04-04T13:32:00.000-07:002013-04-04T13:32:14.337-07:00與香料、橄欖油的相遇,O&CO<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OLlDvhpgjH8/UV3gALRFIjI/AAAAAAAAGo8/AsrWFJ0MRAY/s1600/DSC02490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OLlDvhpgjH8/UV3gALRFIjI/AAAAAAAAGo8/AsrWFJ0MRAY/s640/DSC02490.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Copyright </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "新細明體","serif";">©</span><span lang="EN-US"> Jas Chen</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">一直很喜歡橄欖油。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">用橄欖油炒菜,在沙拉上澆橄欖油,油裡混上一點香醋用麵包滾上一圈,把橄欖油塗在手肘和乾澀的髮梢……</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">金黃色的橄欖油總讓人想起蔚藍的地中海,給平淡的日子一點玫瑰色想像。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">因為如此,曾有相當長的一段時間,我是</span><span lang="EN-US">Oliviers &Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">這家橄欖油專賣的常客。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">除了賣橄欖油,也有許多香料。我曾經為了打造一間專屬自己的歐洲廚房而買進了大大小小諸多不同顏色的各式香料,雖然作菜時順手拿起的永遠只是海鹽和胡椒,充滿各色香氣的廚房倒是認真給過我一段與想像力為伍的日子。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">喔,想像力。我實在不是很擅長隨心所欲使用陌生香料呀。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nhi1b83N1rM/UV3gAQ94WWI/AAAAAAAAGpA/FMPGlY6Lwdw/s1600/DSC02499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nhi1b83N1rM/UV3gAQ94WWI/AAAAAAAAGpA/FMPGlY6Lwdw/s640/DSC02499.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
台中的O&CO店面嫻靜美麗,充滿地中海氣息<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">所以當</span><span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">位於台中的店面決定「也來作作餐廳」,而且還要提供各式菜餚的食譜時,我也充滿了好奇來到此間嚐新。這場特別的迷你宴會使用絕大部分</span><span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">自有的佐料與食材,每一份餐點都會附上製作方式。負責掌廚的</span><span lang="EN-US">Jimmy</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">非常鄭重地說明「如果不好吃可不能怪我,只能怪那些米其林主廚,因為這些都是罐頭佐料可都是他們負責指導調味的。」</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9yNtR41c0vE/UV3gF01DsLI/AAAAAAAAGpU/LG9B5Jjq6R8/s1600/DSC02504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9yNtR41c0vE/UV3gF01DsLI/AAAAAAAAGpU/LG9B5Jjq6R8/s640/DSC02504.JPG" width="640" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--FekiA-J7vk/UV3gF0FqnUI/AAAAAAAAGpM/PMYP2fNTKR0/s1600/DSC02501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--FekiA-J7vk/UV3gF0FqnUI/AAAAAAAAGpM/PMYP2fNTKR0/s640/DSC02501.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
O&CO也賣護膚用品,雖然不多,卻很有個性<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7LEBB52-Eg/UV3gF1sIm0I/AAAAAAAAGpQ/n6o3nED5TVg/s1600/DSC02518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7LEBB52-Eg/UV3gF1sIm0I/AAAAAAAAGpQ/n6o3nED5TVg/s640/DSC02518.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
O&CO居然也賣冷泡茶,還相當好喝,不知道是不是新的品項?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hURZ6x8NLPc/UV3gGsuan6I/AAAAAAAAGpk/wVDX0xGHAKg/s1600/DSC02522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hURZ6x8NLPc/UV3gGsuan6I/AAAAAAAAGpk/wVDX0xGHAKg/s640/DSC02522.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
O&CO的兩款巧克力非常好吃,害我的減重大計完全破功呀,真是糟糕!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_LBx1ZU-ZCM/UV3gGwImcbI/AAAAAAAAGpo/HtCEur1uugI/s1600/DSC02554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_LBx1ZU-ZCM/UV3gGwImcbI/AAAAAAAAGpo/HtCEur1uugI/s640/DSC02554.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
充滿番茄風味的冷前菜<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">不是開玩笑,將自己定位在「料理界的愛馬仕」的</span><span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">,旗下的諸多香料都是</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">由米其林一星到三星廚師混製核可的滋味,黑橄欖跟醃漬檸檬、綠橄欖跟杏仁、</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">酸豆糖漬檸檬美乃滋、法式芥末蘑菇和蘋果梨香水果蔬食醬</span><span lang="EN-US">(</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">光聽就感覺好吃得不得了</span><span lang="EN-US">) </span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">香橙菊苣紅蘿蔔……這些自己在廚房槌搗切刴大半天也不一定能調製出的美味如今完整濃縮在一個個精緻的罐子裡,使用時只要挖出來就可以,簡單的不得了,簡直是打包了好幾個米其林大師回家。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Jimmy</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">今天端上的菜餚賣相都相當好,有前菜的番茄脆餅沙拉和阿爾巴松露油蘆筍磨菇烤蛋,主菜的阿爾巴松露野菇燉飯和甜點柑橘肉桂慕斯蛋糕,算是相當完整的三式料理。其中除了甜點比較不適合新手自己在家嘗試之外,其他的菜大約只要掌握基本的烹飪原則,再搭配</span><span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">的佐料就行。我特別喜歡阿爾巴松露野菇的香氣,而烤蛋的賣相又很討喜,所以特別研究了隨菜附上的食譜,沒想到相當簡單。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U1-a2_PBWy8/UV3gHKO7ycI/AAAAAAAAGps/0dv2DY-DqB8/s1600/DSC02591.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U1-a2_PBWy8/UV3gHKO7ycI/AAAAAAAAGps/0dv2DY-DqB8/s640/DSC02591.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;"><b>阿爾巴松露油蘆筍磨菇烤蛋</b></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><b>材料</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">義大利特級摩地納香醋</span><span lang="EN-US">1/2T</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">義大利極品松露香鹽</span><span lang="EN-US">1/4</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">匙</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">雞蛋四顆、蘆筍四支、磨菇</span><span lang="EN-US">20</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">克、鮮奶油</span><span lang="EN-US">40</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">克、馬斯卡彭起司</span><span lang="EN-US">16</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">克</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><b>作法</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">將蛋白蛋黃分離,磨菇切片,蘆筍切段</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">將蛋白與鮮奶油、馬斯卡彭起司與松露鹽打散均勻</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">將蛋汁倒入碗內,放入蘆筍再輕輕倒進蛋黃</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">隔水烘烤攝氏</span><span lang="EN-US">150</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">度</span><span lang="EN-US">20</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">分</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">炒香磨菇、加上香醋後淋上烤蛋即完成</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">成品非常動人,層次滋味豐富。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jnIJSg2pago/UV3gHzZJu2I/AAAAAAAAGp4/_gNmuLr616w/s1600/DSC02603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jnIJSg2pago/UV3gHzZJu2I/AAAAAAAAGp4/_gNmuLr616w/s640/DSC02603.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
佛卡夏三明治看起來也很誘人<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fOWYDOsjR1Q/UV3gIF_VHSI/AAAAAAAAGqA/TmQM0GwC6Xc/s1600/DSC02622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fOWYDOsjR1Q/UV3gIF_VHSI/AAAAAAAAGqA/TmQM0GwC6Xc/s640/DSC02622.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
燉飯<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RbkUjIBlaAM/UV3gMoF7-dI/AAAAAAAAGqU/vEYy9YLqyD0/s1600/DSC02630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RbkUjIBlaAM/UV3gMoF7-dI/AAAAAAAAGqU/vEYy9YLqyD0/s640/DSC02630.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
也很不錯的義大利麵<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zn2BZ5Zm7EI/UV3gIjwAZuI/AAAAAAAAGqI/XR2U2olRbRw/s1600/DSC02635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zn2BZ5Zm7EI/UV3gIjwAZuI/AAAAAAAAGqI/XR2U2olRbRw/s640/DSC02635.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
甜點還是來店裡吃比較好吧?<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">飯罷忍不住逛起了產品,猶豫很久還是買下義大利香醋。雖然老實說懶人如我,更希望直直接接走近充滿地中海氣息的</span><span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">台中新光三越店面,但是台中呀,實在遠了點。</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">話說台北信義誠品的</span><span lang="EN-US">O&Co</span><span style="font-family: 新細明體, serif;">會不會有哪一天也推出餐廳系列呢?這個我就可以常常捧場了嘛!不是嗎?</span><br />
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-7307530236140794242013-01-13T21:20:00.000-08:002013-01-21T00:47:36.768-08:00銀塔餐廳 La Tour d'Argent<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--EgutWkMRw0/UPOIE7nJNHI/AAAAAAAAGjk/R3viTvdcdz0/s1600/IMG_6066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--EgutWkMRw0/UPOIE7nJNHI/AAAAAAAAGjk/R3viTvdcdz0/s1600/IMG_6066.JPG" width="425" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Copyright © Jas Chen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">已經很久沒有認真寫過食記,當然,其實也根本不能說曾認真記錄過。這當然有各種原因,不過不是正題,姑且跳過。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">前不久去了巴黎,雖然不是第一次去,可能也不會是最後一次去<span lang="EN-US">(</span>希望<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,不過因為某些因素,旅行本身很有一點慶祝性質,因此去之前還是極其難得地挑選餐廳訂位,準備跟錢包過不去。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">既然是慶祝,銀塔餐廳<span lang="EN-US">(La Tour d'Argent)</span>就成為我個人的必要選項,除非訂不到,否則非去不可。這老實說,並不是因為銀塔餐廳的料理多麼有名。當然曾經連續拿下將近五十年米其林三星的銀塔,料理上一定有其水準,然而近來諸多事端,輝煌的星星已被摘光,食物想來必受影響。如果純粹為了美味,好像沒有非去不可的必要。不過如果從歷史、氣度、景色、作派上來看<span lang="EN-US">(</span>偏偏都是我喜歡講究又不一定講究得起的部分<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,銀塔簡直完美無缺,是巴黎美食皇冠上的最璀璨的珠寶。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I_s4spffiOs/UPOID3RFyoI/AAAAAAAAGjc/jQ4GhtqgPKA/s1600/IMG_6058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I_s4spffiOs/UPOID3RFyoI/AAAAAAAAGjc/jQ4GhtqgPKA/s1600/IMG_6058.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<b>銀塔一樓招待廳 </b><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">銀塔創立在<span lang="EN-US">1582</span>年。本來當作旅館經營,只招待當時有能力旅遊、能好吃好喝、不一定有氣質但絕對很有錢的皇家貴族。四百多年來雖幾經波折<span lang="EN-US">(</span>發生了幾次大戰嘛<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,經營方向大體不變,吃客從諸國君王到總統到明星到如今的觀光客,各依據在當代的經濟重要性輪番成為座上賓,最不缺名氣人氣,因此底氣也很足。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">銀塔又座落在塞納河畔,斜對面就是聖母院,基本上就是巴黎正中心,不要說已經到過巴黎幾次的人,就算從未來過巴黎,也不愁找不到地方。此外餐廳位於六樓<span lang="EN-US">(</span>台灣的七樓<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,前方就是河景,一無遮掩。位置絕佳外,景色更是好得無話可說。我看過幾次旁人拍攝的照片,覺得坐在那樣的位置就算吃麥當勞也能成珍饈,心動不已。不瞞您說,甚至曾幻想過哪天能與心儀的人坐在這面對最美景色的窗前,伴著一枚戒指或玫瑰花,似乎就是人生至美哪。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">基於以上種種與飲食毫無關係的莫名其妙之因,來到了銀塔。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6EHsqaUGgW0/UPOHoq4zujI/AAAAAAAAGhk/ioFr_JJApkI/s1600/IMG_6002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6EHsqaUGgW0/UPOHoq4zujI/AAAAAAAAGhk/ioFr_JJApkI/s1600/IMG_6002.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>銀塔的每張桌子上都有水晶小鴨裝飾</b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c_FWjROxkKI/UPOHoUOCboI/AAAAAAAAGhg/BzOu8vGnTNo/s1600/IMG_5994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c_FWjROxkKI/UPOHoUOCboI/AAAAAAAAGhg/BzOu8vGnTNo/s1600/IMG_5994.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
<b>這張景色絕美的位置據說至少要半年前預訂,桌上是銀質杯盤 </b><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">特別說明一下,到銀塔當天是<span lang="EN-US">2013</span>年一月一日中午。本來擔心這種時間米其林等級的餐廳大概不營業,不過還好,除了定休的周日周一外,銀塔倒沒有放元旦假,更慶幸的是沒有端上什麼新年大餐之類、光食材驚人,手藝未見得好的騙人菜式。為了荷包大人不翻臉,我本應老實點在這種餐廳裡最樸實無華的午間套餐─銀塔這種商業午餐要價<span lang="EN-US">75</span>歐元,不過,這樣的菜單並沒有銀塔經典的菜色,血鴨。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">都說法國人和中國人是最懂得吃的兩個民族,尤其,特別懂得吃鴨。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">中國有南京鹹水鴨和北平烤鴨,法國有油封鴨和血鴨。血鴨的法文是<span lang="EN-US">Canard à la presse</span>,也可以說是<span lang="EN-US">canard au sang</span>,意思是以血煮鴨。英文叫<span lang="EN-US">pressed duck</span>,如果知道料理方式就會感覺這個稱謂非常傳神。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">血鴨是法國傳統大菜,據說是從法國北部靠近英倫海峽的<span lang="EN-US">Rouen</span>而來,發明者是個名叫<span lang="EN-US">Mèchenet</span>的人。血鴨的風味來自於鴨血,為了保存鴨血,其製作過程相當繁複。首先,鴨子取來一律絞殺,以避免損失血液。第二步驟是烤鴨,但只能將鴨燒烤微熟,表皮微焦,切開仍要見血才行。再將鴨胸肉切去,將其餘部分連肉帶骨帶血全部放進純銀的特製銀器內壓榨成汁,鴨胸肉再去料理,壓出的汁液混合松露油、鴨油等等再行燒治成為血鴨醬汁。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">這道菜成為<span lang="EN-US">La Tour d' Argent</span>的招牌,就像提起北平烤鴨就會想到全聚德,提到血鴨法國人第一個想到的就是銀塔。自從十九世紀以來,銀塔將每一隻賣出的血鴨編號。到<span lang="EN-US">1996</span>年,銀塔賣出的血鴨已經有一百萬隻。其中也有所謂的「名人鴨碼」,比如英王愛德華七世吃的鴨是第<span lang="EN-US">328</span>隻;羅斯福總統吃的是第<span lang="EN-US">33642</span>隻;而第<span lang="EN-US">253652</span>隻鴨子是給卓別林吃掉的。我其實沒有很相信血鴨味道多麼多麼美,一定要點的原因也想看看到底時至今日,銀塔賣掉了幾隻鴨?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">抵達銀塔當天天氣非常好,完全沒有冬日巴黎的陰鬱,朋友<span lang="EN-US">Jerry</span>身穿正式西裝在大門等候,敘舊以外先嘲笑我們不夠正式的觀光客衣著。來巴黎上高級餐廳,大部分都有服裝規定。但如銀塔這樣已很觀光化的地方,其實不要穿球鞋涼鞋短褲之類,大概都不會被拒於門口。<span lang="EN-US">(</span>從前當然不是這樣,只是如今一切向錢看哪<span lang="EN-US">)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">銀塔的一樓算是接待室,侍者先來取走大衣等物寄放,再請我們到華麗的大廳等候。大廳光線不足,邊角一側放了當年沙皇和亨利七世來用餐時使用的餐具佈置,入門則是太陽王某任情婦專用的小轎,中間應景地放了聖誕樹,整體風格陰暗而華麗,沉沉地鍍著金,枝枝葉葉繚繞。我完全當自己是觀光客,盡情拍照。侍者不一會便來請我們上樓,銀塔的餐室是在六樓。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">雖然銀塔六樓的裝飾也頗有可書,不過您若是一進到此,第一個注意的一定不是在此。如前所述,銀塔的景觀一等一的好,因為天氣甚佳,望出去的景色更是迷人,簡直讓人移不開視線。餐桌的布置初看並不驚人,不過仔細一點就會發現拿來盛水的杯子是純銀作成。我因為曾經對銀器有興趣,知道隨隨便便的銀器大概也要數百歐,雖然不想小家子氣,但是這麼大方讓客人使用實在令人驚嘆。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbBKv659jYM/UPOHoleadhI/AAAAAAAAGho/P6dMF3NPESI/s1600/IMG_6003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbBKv659jYM/UPOHoleadhI/AAAAAAAAGho/P6dMF3NPESI/s1600/IMG_6003.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b> 餐前招待的鵝肝醬小點</b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">如果擔心看不懂法文無法點菜,可以先上網查銀塔的菜單,其實目前銀塔的菜單提供英法文,這不太會是問題。真正有問題的是酒。除非都不喝酒<span lang="EN-US">(</span>當然不點酒也行<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,銀塔的酒單能讓品酒專家喜極而泣,卻會令如我一般僅能說是嗜酒人者昏倒。不誇張,品酒師手上抱著的酒單本足足有十五公分厚。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">銀塔的酒藏之所以如此豐富,主要歸功於曾經輝煌不遜於銀塔的英國咖啡館<span lang="EN-US">(Café Anglais)</span>,英國咖啡館實際上是間餐廳,在十九世紀是歐洲貴族喜歡的聚會場所,當時的老闆<span lang="EN-US">Claudius Burdel</span>是英國、俄國和波斯三大皇室的供酒商,窖藏豐富不說,還藏有為俄皇調製的陳年香檳,連<span lang="EN-US">1855</span>年以前<span lang="EN-US">(</span>波爾多酒莊出現排名之前<span lang="EN-US">)</span>的老酒都有,囊括了十九世紀前,歐洲葡萄樹被病毒摧毀前的原生葡萄樹所釀的酒。</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">在<span lang="EN-US">1913</span>年,英國咖啡館歇業,而英國咖啡館老闆的女兒則在這年嫁給了銀塔的老闆,這批酒成為嫁妝,因此原封不動移入銀塔,此後在銀塔的酒窖安置到今,現存的新舊酒約有四萬瓶,偶爾舉辦老酒拍賣<span lang="EN-US">(</span>曾拍出上百年的酒<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,都會成為葡萄酒界的盛事。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">很可惜,現場的三人酒齡尚淺,對<span lang="EN-US">15</span>公分厚的酒單束手無策,最後由<span lang="EN-US">Jerry</span>當心點了銀塔自家的香檳開胃,來搭配餐前附贈的鵝肝醬小點。再點了一瓶他熟悉的紅酒佐餐,決定之迅速連讓侍酒師打開酒單的機會都沒有。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">餐的部分,若要將套餐換點血鴨至少需要兩人份,所以<span lang="EN-US">SC</span>便沒有選擇餘地陪我叫了血鴨。簡便的套餐裡湯沒得挑,前菜有蝸牛、干貝塔塔<span lang="EN-US">(</span>即生干貝剁碎作成圓餅狀<span lang="EN-US">)</span>和里昂菜餚的梭子魚蛋團。我要了蝸牛。<span lang="EN-US">SC</span>點了干貝塔塔。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">上湯的方式是先上湯料,由侍者倒入濃湯,侍者的姿態都很漂亮。可惜雖然不是多久前的事,很抱歉,湯的滋味實在記不清了。記不清的原因就是湯的滋味循規蹈矩,不好不壞,沒有令人驚艷的部分,也不至於難喝到難以忘懷。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">蝸牛的味道偏淡<span lang="EN-US">(</span>以我微薄的經驗來說清淡的菜在巴黎該是少數<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,雖然是高麗菜沫與大蒜調味,大蒜的香氣和嗆味並不濃烈。我很喜歡焗烤田螺這道菜,據說這道菜本應該由蝸牛來作,只是早期台灣食用蝸牛取得較難,多用田螺代替。因為如此,才想在巴黎好好試試正宗蝸牛的口感。純就口感來說,蝸牛更柔軟些,仍然有極淡的泥土腥氣,不那樣適合清淡搭配,也許調味重一點更為得宜。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">SC</span><span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">的干貝塔塔平淡無奇,生干貝這種食材基本上不要配上太離譜的醬汁都不會差到哪裡去,除非調出像<span lang="EN-US">Susur Lee</span>風格那樣奇詭的醬汁,否則本來不容易讓人驚艷。老實說,這道菜有點太簡單,不很符合曾有米其林等級的餐廳,干貝的品質也普普通通,不過這是<span lang="EN-US">75</span>歐元套餐的選擇,這個價位大概也端不出更好的來。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6tIVQkDpwIY/UPOHrrWZu3I/AAAAAAAAGh4/B7r1pGHO3bE/s1600/IMG_6009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6tIVQkDpwIY/UPOHrrWZu3I/AAAAAAAAGh4/B7r1pGHO3bE/s1600/IMG_6009.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>滋味普通的濃湯</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MY5dDKqzq-k/UPOHtjDyfmI/AAAAAAAAGiA/dp7ms8uAlB4/s1600/IMG_6012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MY5dDKqzq-k/UPOHtjDyfmI/AAAAAAAAGiA/dp7ms8uAlB4/s1600/IMG_6012.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>蝸牛前菜</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ep5Fs64BRI0/UPOHv7YoKCI/AAAAAAAAGiI/wHVq6TFY88E/s1600/IMG_6013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ep5Fs64BRI0/UPOHv7YoKCI/AAAAAAAAGiI/wHVq6TFY88E/s1600/IMG_6013.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>SC的干貝塔塔</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JcvGhcye49M/UPOHxVdYAYI/AAAAAAAAGiU/u6s3IrxvPMA/s1600/IMG_6014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JcvGhcye49M/UPOHxVdYAYI/AAAAAAAAGiU/u6s3IrxvPMA/s1600/IMG_6014.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>Jerry的梭子魚蛋團</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I7eA0wfc9Z4/UPOH1c91vyI/AAAAAAAAGig/0SAYdme4SS4/s1600/IMG_6026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I7eA0wfc9Z4/UPOH1c91vyI/AAAAAAAAGig/0SAYdme4SS4/s1600/IMG_6026.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><b>血鴨</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">主菜上桌前,侍者先端了一整隻放在銀盤上的烤鴨過來,表示這是我們將要吃到的鴨子,然後又端走。見此我的眼睛都亮了起來,難道這一整隻都是我們的?<span lang="EN-US">(</span>錢花得可值啦<span lang="EN-US">)</span>於是帶著相機興匆匆追去餐檯觀察。負責切鴨的老侍者並不反對我拍照,切鴨的砧板旁放的就是專門拿來壓榨鴨血的壓鴨器。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">銀塔的血鴨祇選用法國名鴨裘地瓊鴨<span lang="EN-US">(Duck Challandais)</span>,因為是沼澤地帶,又有優良水質的淡水湖,出產的鴨肉肉質最為柔嫩。我期望老侍者切下一些看來可口的鴨肉,不過最後端上桌的只有一片厚實的鴨胸肉。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">一看上桌的菜餚就沒有期待了,基於前兩道不甚出色之因,我已然確信銀塔的品質大不如前,好險因為其他因素,還不算太過失望。血鴨上桌別的不說,光是擺盤就很陽春,一片鴨肉加上幾個馬鈴薯薄皮球,不光不美,顏色也貧乏得難以引人食欲。結果大錯特錯,這才是銀塔之行的第一個高潮。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">「我沒有吃過這麼好吃的鴨肉!」這是我吃完後的第一句話。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">純粹以鴨肉本身來說,血鴨很有「野味」感,以血調成的濃厚醬汁滋味非常濃郁,層次並不多,但是非常搭配鴨肉本身的味道。鴨肉非常柔軟,幾乎沒有纖維感,此外也很入味,肉與醬汁的協調難以言喻。<span lang="EN-US">(</span>也不奇怪,血肉的組合嘛<span lang="EN-US">)</span>看似不起眼的配菜馬鈴薯球也很美味,拿來沾醬汁剛好,本身的口感也甚佳。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">同樣也吃血鴨的<span lang="EN-US">SC</span>也對血鴨大加讚賞,不過吃了一口的<span lang="EN-US">Jerry</span>評論是「一嘴血味」<span lang="EN-US">(</span>雖然我並不感覺血腥氣<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,曾試過的友人<span lang="EN-US">Rene</span>則認為經典,但並不算特別出色。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">鴨胸肉過後侍者上了相關連的鴨腿肉丁,這道的滋味就不出奇,只是腿肉扎實,富咬勁。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D-pjsj4vX-w/UPOHwHJFhAI/AAAAAAAAGiM/GONyu7TEk4g/s1600/IMG_6011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D-pjsj4vX-w/UPOHwHJFhAI/AAAAAAAAGiM/GONyu7TEk4g/s1600/IMG_6011.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-byJsMvZYSXo/UPOH1wVaiHI/AAAAAAAAGik/QZVXd2P4VpE/s1600/IMG_6019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-byJsMvZYSXo/UPOH1wVaiHI/AAAAAAAAGik/QZVXd2P4VpE/s1600/IMG_6019.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
<b>侍者旁邊形狀古怪的器皿就是壓鴨器</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gsvg1hNaeLM/UPOH2GHQENI/AAAAAAAAGio/sHhrB3tm4O4/s1600/IMG_6029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gsvg1hNaeLM/UPOH2GHQENI/AAAAAAAAGio/sHhrB3tm4O4/s1600/IMG_6029.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>鴨腿肉丁</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--VFqAWEZMvM/UPOH351VanI/AAAAAAAAGi4/I31h1zK1KJo/s1600/IMG_6030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--VFqAWEZMvM/UPOH351VanI/AAAAAAAAGi4/I31h1zK1KJo/s1600/IMG_6030.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>令人驚艷的甜點</b><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">其實到此已覺得不虛此行<span lang="EN-US">(</span>或許是因為期待不高<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,不過甜點上來後又是令人驚艷。這道甜點是以巧克力薄片、栗子為主,附盆子提味,酸香氣勝於甜味,從巧克力的濃郁中竄出。看起來是硬梆梆的甜品,入嘴卻是又糯又酥,口感令人想起京都長樂館的招牌名點草莓酥餅。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">另外招待的小點心和巧克力不過聊備一格,味道想不起來。咖啡以巴黎的水準而言還算濃郁,但是一杯濃縮要價十歐元,還是去外面喝比較合算。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">用餐一頓費時將近四小時,每一頓都這樣吃可受不了。不過難得看著美景談談說說,氣氛很是愉快。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">米其林星級的餐廳<span lang="EN-US">(</span>雖然銀塔目前應該不算<span lang="EN-US">)</span>點套餐並不是最佳選擇,因為成本因素,大抵在前菜和甜點上比較出眾,主菜反而不容易有太好的<span lang="EN-US">(</span>這是根據米其林吃客<span lang="EN-US">Rene</span>的說法<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,銀塔經驗恰好例外。我深愛血鴨這味經典菜色,若有機會還想帶父母來嘗試。據說銀塔被摘星的可能原因是因為其固守傳統,菜色鮮有推陳出新。不過這點正合喜追古味的我,若是極愛創意料理的人可能接受不了花大價錢吃老菜的結果。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "新細明體","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-font-kerning: 0pt; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">不過我要說,都到四百年的餐廳了,不就要試試老味道嗎?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cU9qIZ5cxSI/UPOH7ZAvYJI/AAAAAAAAGjA/2v--663q2kI/s1600/IMG_6034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cU9qIZ5cxSI/UPOH7ZAvYJI/AAAAAAAAGjA/2v--663q2kI/s1600/IMG_6034.JPG" width="424" /></a></div>
<b>招待的小點心</b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZmIro_cMdSw/UPOH8R4skXI/AAAAAAAAGjE/sYvxZ6jA_38/s1600/IMG_6035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZmIro_cMdSw/UPOH8R4skXI/AAAAAAAAGjE/sYvxZ6jA_38/s1600/IMG_6035.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>巧克力是可以多拿的</b></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V5X-n_vpilA/UPOIDC1NaRI/AAAAAAAAGjY/g-FuGUc2ErI/s1600/IMG_6064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V5X-n_vpilA/UPOIDC1NaRI/AAAAAAAAGjY/g-FuGUc2ErI/s1600/IMG_6064.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>俄皇等人使用過的餐桌及餐具</b><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-27679038831285912502011-01-13T11:26:00.000-08:002011-01-13T11:38:47.964-08:00關於懶貓與她的橄欖油<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/TS9TqAGUDDI/AAAAAAAACyY/OvgGoP0Aon4/s1600/DSC01331.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 266px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561756045871942706" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/TS9TqAGUDDI/AAAAAAAACyY/OvgGoP0Aon4/s400/DSC01331.JPG" /></a><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/TS9TaIWTheI/AAAAAAAACyQ/He_mLdqXqMQ/s1600/DSC01334.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 266px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561755773208593890" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/TS9TaIWTheI/AAAAAAAACyQ/He_mLdqXqMQ/s400/DSC01334.JPG" /></a><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/TS9THVewCRI/AAAAAAAACyI/pLz9ILFul5E/s1600/DSC01344.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561755450316163346" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/TS9THVewCRI/AAAAAAAACyI/pLz9ILFul5E/s400/DSC01344.JPG" /></a>Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />關於懶貓這個奇妙的女人:<a href="http://blog.yam.com/lazycat">http://blog.yam.com/lazycat</a><br />關於懶貓使用的美味橄欖油:<a href="http://www.oliviers-co.com.tw/">http://www.oliviers-co.com.tw/</a><br /><br />那是個美妙午後,卻不應該在這要命的時間看那會餓死人的相片呀。<br /><a href="http://www.oliviers-co.com.tw/"></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-82259701331116270772010-02-13T05:16:00.000-08:002010-02-13T08:22:36.314-08:00陳家的年夜飯<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3bQ8NcLleI/AAAAAAAACFE/DdPVBFZEbXo/s1600-h/IMG_2020.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437763332915041762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3bQ8NcLleI/AAAAAAAACFE/DdPVBFZEbXo/s400/IMG_2020.JPG" border="0" /></a> Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />金包銀,由地瓜粉芶芡裹住干貝、芹菜、火腿等物,和油蒸成糕狀,由於地瓜粉在外,故名金包銀,除了在家裡,還沒在別的地方吃過的菜,在陳家也是一年就吃一次。<br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3atBScRalI/AAAAAAAACEM/MgXIe9yzbCY/s1600-h/IMG_1965.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437723837738347090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3atBScRalI/AAAAAAAACEM/MgXIe9yzbCY/s400/IMG_1965.JPG" border="0" /></a> 十錦菜,由芹菜、胡蘿蔔、榨菜、酸菜、香菇、金針、杏鮑菇、豆芽、木耳及筍干所做成。算是涼菜。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3asgRXmPII/AAAAAAAACEA/scvuPCMkIPI/s1600-h/IMG_1966.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437723270514621570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3asgRXmPII/AAAAAAAACEA/scvuPCMkIPI/s400/IMG_1966.JPG" border="0" /></a> 烏魚子。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3arsOAnKlI/AAAAAAAACDw/JclNe-I6yJQ/s1600-h/IMG_1969.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437722376259709522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3arsOAnKlI/AAAAAAAACDw/JclNe-I6yJQ/s400/IMG_1969.JPG" border="0" /></a> 只可以挾幾筷的"年年有魚"。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3arao7OZ2I/AAAAAAAACDo/_RSeIAwsMN0/s1600-h/IMG_1971.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437722074247227234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3arao7OZ2I/AAAAAAAACDo/_RSeIAwsMN0/s400/IMG_1971.JPG" border="0" /></a> 龍蝦干貝沙拉與車輪牌鮑魚 。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aqvtoP5FI/AAAAAAAACDg/GS_vdtl9hEM/s1600-h/IMG_1976.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437721336775435346" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aqvtoP5FI/AAAAAAAACDg/GS_vdtl9hEM/s400/IMG_1976.JPG" border="0" /></a> 燴海鮮 。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aqbl8vRDI/AAAAAAAACDY/fpWlzYduBgI/s1600-h/IMG_1979.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437720991116510258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aqbl8vRDI/AAAAAAAACDY/fpWlzYduBgI/s400/IMG_1979.JPG" border="0" /></a> 爛煨豬腳。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aqMO-hw5I/AAAAAAAACDQ/0NPe1n2Me_4/s1600-h/IMG_1985.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437720727251960722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aqMO-hw5I/AAAAAAAACDQ/0NPe1n2Me_4/s400/IMG_1985.JPG" border="0" /></a> 陳家獅子頭。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3ap5RxB_LI/AAAAAAAACDI/VDNluciIJ0k/s1600-h/IMG_1987.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437720401583144114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3ap5RxB_LI/AAAAAAAACDI/VDNluciIJ0k/s400/IMG_1987.JPG" border="0" /></a> 自製安東雞。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3apriTBZmI/AAAAAAAACDA/sGAN5HJ60LE/s1600-h/IMG_1988.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437720165502510690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3apriTBZmI/AAAAAAAACDA/sGAN5HJ60LE/s400/IMG_1988.JPG" border="0" /></a> 煎香魚。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3apX_NaGLI/AAAAAAAACC4/wKV39Q4bY_w/s1600-h/IMG_1991.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437719829666207922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3apX_NaGLI/AAAAAAAACC4/wKV39Q4bY_w/s400/IMG_1991.JPG" border="0" /></a> 鹹肉、香腸、金銀肝拼盤。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3apITrEQ9I/AAAAAAAACCw/NFy0-lVRWmY/s1600-h/IMG_1992.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437719560281408466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3apITrEQ9I/AAAAAAAACCw/NFy0-lVRWmY/s400/IMG_1992.JPG" border="0" /></a> 明蝦片與燒花枝片雙拼。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3ao4uPgExI/AAAAAAAACCo/rMgwxtuwNKE/s1600-h/IMG_1993.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437719292535640850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3ao4uPgExI/AAAAAAAACCo/rMgwxtuwNKE/s400/IMG_1993.JPG" border="0" /></a> 醉蝦醉雞雙拼。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aopTyG9zI/AAAAAAAACCg/z-xUVerhRig/s1600-h/IMG_2005.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437719027735000882" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aopTyG9zI/AAAAAAAACCg/z-xUVerhRig/s400/IMG_2005.JPG" border="0" /></a> 陳家佛跳牆。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aoaz__PoI/AAAAAAAACCY/KHJ75sfWLBY/s1600-h/IMG_2006.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437718778685111938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aoaz__PoI/AAAAAAAACCY/KHJ75sfWLBY/s400/IMG_2006.JPG" border="0" /></a> 蝦捲、芋泥圓及雞捲三拼(當然都是自家製)。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aoLbVyTiI/AAAAAAAACCQ/UUdvju8PUHE/s1600-h/IMG_2008.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437718514367614498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3aoLbVyTiI/AAAAAAAACCQ/UUdvju8PUHE/s400/IMG_2008.JPG" border="0" /></a> 長年菜。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3an-5iOC3I/AAAAAAAACCI/bMr7r1ppLEg/s1600-h/IMG_2009.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437718299134528370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3an-5iOC3I/AAAAAAAACCI/bMr7r1ppLEg/s400/IMG_2009.JPG" border="0" /></a> 南京圓環的老店購買的福州丸。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3anxLMMJfI/AAAAAAAACCA/8q95ybXLIts/s1600-h/IMG_2010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437718063355799026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3anxLMMJfI/AAAAAAAACCA/8q95ybXLIts/s400/IMG_2010.JPG" border="0" /></a> 先炸後煮的陳家招牌排骨。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3ankaI8UyI/AAAAAAAACB4/l6Lb-S-iOkM/s1600-h/IMG_2011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437717844030411554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3ankaI8UyI/AAAAAAAACB4/l6Lb-S-iOkM/s400/IMG_2011.JPG" border="0" /></a> 乾果小菜,其實還有海蜇皮、杏仁果、馬鈴薯泥沙拉等小菜。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3anMQzgD-I/AAAAAAAACBw/VEP47WPJGf0/s1600-h/IMG_2023.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437717429207699426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3anMQzgD-I/AAAAAAAACBw/VEP47WPJGf0/s400/IMG_2023.JPG" border="0" /></a> 七海酒樓的蘿蔔糕。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3am_0tAaNI/AAAAAAAACBo/tzOxyDIwC4c/s1600-h/IMG_2024.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437717215505836242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3am_0tAaNI/AAAAAAAACBo/tzOxyDIwC4c/s400/IMG_2024.JPG" border="0" /></a> 傳統發糕與麵粉發糕(龍月堂)。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3am0hbFrtI/AAAAAAAACBg/hAJll2LRRZE/s1600-h/IMG_2026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437717021351849682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3am0hbFrtI/AAAAAAAACBg/hAJll2LRRZE/s400/IMG_2026.JPG" border="0" /></a> 乾煎年糕。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3amdexx10I/AAAAAAAACBY/sB5uw_QuvSQ/s1600-h/IMG_2027.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5437716625504720706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S3amdexx10I/AAAAAAAACBY/sB5uw_QuvSQ/s400/IMG_2027.JPG" border="0" /></a> 飯後總會有,一年就喝這麼一次、很甜的紅棗茶。<br /><br />貼出來跟大家分享,當然,不接受點菜來的。<br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-22536935032635719542010-01-05T20:20:00.000-08:002010-01-05T20:35:16.906-08:00【彧馨吃館子】2009年的完美句點,蒲公英蛋包飯<img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423477526117549762" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S0QQEz-NBsI/AAAAAAAAB8g/UlIxfSYfvv8/s400/229714_1.jpg" /><strong>原刊於UDN聯合新聞網2010.01.06</strong><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />2009年的最後一天,我在東京。<br /><br />匆匆忙忙地在壽司清的門口排了相當久的隊,吃掉一整盤新鮮無比、據說是年末特惠組合的握壽司。壽司十分美味,雖然這天名店大和壽司與壽司大都沒開門,但是吃了甘純甜美的生干貝壽司和調理清爽的沙丁魚壽司,我還是偷偷感謝沒有聽從電視冠軍˙築地美食王小関敦之的「築地年終採購必勝法」的重要守則─放棄壽司。<br /><br />我勉強地在築地市場購買年貨的人潮中衝鋒陷陣,總算買到有名的松露玉子燒,可以脫身了。低頭一看腕表,呼,居然將近中午。<br /><br />晚上要跟住日本的朋友碰面吃飯,接著趕去增上寺等待東京鐵塔下的跨年。住日本的朋友是節省的留學生,由他帶路,晚上會吃到什麼還真不知道。那麼說,2009最後一頓可以由自己做主的好飯,似乎就是這頓中飯了。<br /><br />「我還是想去吃那個。沒辦法。」<br /><br />「相當貴呢,真的要去?」<br /><br />我點點頭,決意跟自己的荷包過不去。雖然不是什麼了不起的大錢,但是如果要花上1850日元去吃一盤很單純、沒有湯啊飲料啊配菜什麼,極單純的一盤蛋包飯,還真是不便宜(一人份十分美味的握壽司也才2500日元啊)。身為超級蛋迷,來日本簡直是很幸福的一件事。這裡的人愛蛋成痴,只要是可以上桌的料理,幾乎都可以配顆蛋。舉凡打在蓋飯上的生蛋黃、軍艦壽司上的小鵪鶉蛋、自成一品的玉子燒、拉麵裡、漢堡中的半熟卵、蛋汁豬排飯、雞蛋雞肉飯、雞蛋布丁、溫泉蛋……我無一不愛,卻很奇怪地沒怎麼好好吃過蛋包飯。<br /><br />那麼2009年的句點就由蛋包飯畫下吧。就這麼任性決定,然後強迫同行友人接受。<br /><br />說到蛋包飯,有名的店自然很多,原本屬意「吾妻」,經過打聽,一份蛋包飯居然要價七千多日幣!這根本是個完全無法接受的價格。不得不繼續尋覓的結果,是發現曾經喜愛的導演伊丹十三,在一家名為《たいめいけん》的洋食店中發明一種蛋包飯─たんぽぽオムライス (蒲公英蛋包飯)。好不好吃不很明白,但是美麗的名字就足夠讓我想將它端上餐桌。<br />位於日本橋的《たいめいけん》門口,似乎永遠都有人在排隊。繼人真的非常多的築地之後,我和朋友居然在寒風無人的街道上又繼續排起了長隊,而且時間花費得還比築地久,真是不可思議。據說由於《たいめいけん》位於辦公區,中午時分往往已經有長列上班族人龍等待,何況今天是年末,只營業到午後三點,接下來連休到元月五日才恢復營業。<br /><br />久候之後送上來的蒲公英蛋包飯相當漂亮,嫩黃色的光滑表面非常誘人。嚴格說起來在一開始這盤應該不能算是蛋包飯,而是一汪炒飯上擺著煎好的蛋包。實際的蛋包飯該是像朋友點的,規規矩矩以蛋皮包裹住炒飯。不過只要一刀劃下蒲公英蛋包飯的蛋皮表面,飽滿的蛋皮迸開,宛如蒲公英狀奶油羽毛般的蛋汁四溢裹住其下的米粒,濃郁雞蛋甜香與奶油滋味湧出,口裡就會忍不住分泌出饞嘴的唾液,那麼到底是不是正統蛋包飯好像也不再那麼重要。<br /><br />據說這是電影導演伊丹十三在拍電影「タンポポ」(蒲公英) 時,因應劇情拜託《たいめいけん》創作出的蛋包飯,自此成為店中名菜。我喜歡它厚重的奶油雞蛋氣味,也喜歡搭配著番茄醬的丁點酸氣。一邊吃一邊打開相機觀看剛端上桌時拍下的照片,蛋包彷彿幫我劃下一個圓滿的圓,成為09年最完美句點。<br /><br />喔,附帶一提,朋友的牛肉口味正統蛋包飯也相當不錯,雖然少了點視覺效果,比較清爽的口味對怕膩的人來說也許更好吃喔。<br /><br /><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423477606372887570" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S0QQJe8kTBI/AAAAAAAAB8o/iGMA5T7AwT8/s400/229714_2.jpg" /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S0QQOFsiXGI/AAAAAAAAB8w/uQWil-mnWtc/s1600-h/229714_3.jpg"><span style="color:#ffffff;"><br /></span><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423477685494111330" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/S0QQOFsiXGI/AAAAAAAAB8w/uQWil-mnWtc/s400/229714_3.jpg" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-24603605319678864562009-11-22T10:44:00.000-08:002009-11-22T10:49:27.669-08:00【彧馨吃館子】豆汁、焦圈、鹹菜,老北京<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SwmG3dV0HbI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/wQ-TSGVelMg/s1600/%E8%B1%86%E6%B1%81%E5%A5%97%E9%A4%90.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407001114962042290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 266px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SwmG3dV0HbI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/wQ-TSGVelMg/s400/%E8%B1%86%E6%B1%81%E5%A5%97%E9%A4%90.JPG" border="0" /></a><strong>原刊於UDN聯合新聞網2009.11.18<br /></strong>Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />數了數,我總共吃下了豌豆黃、驢打滾、山楂糕、愛窩窩這些本來在台北早已嘗試過的小點心,又吃了驢肉火燒、灌腸、炒肝、酸奶、炸咯咋、羊尾巴(麵食)等等本來沒吃過,甚至也沒聽過的小吃;還吃了據說「非常正宗」的炸醬麵和滿族餃子,值得一提的是這些全在一家餐廳吃的。正確來說,這些都是在「一餐」的時間內吞下的。說起來還真是不好意思。<br /><br />「喏,剩這個了,吃了這,差不多妳就把老北京小吃吃一圈了。」<br /><br />同桌的朋友指著一碗淡綠泛青的湯水,一臉不懷好意。<br /><br />那碗湯水喚作「豆汁」,據說是水磨綠豆製作粉絲粉條時,處理完的湯汁經過發酵而成,是真正「道地老北京」才會吃的食品,有一說是看吃不吃豆汁,就知道這人是不是京城人。我久聞豆汁大名,除了這種種說法以外,還是因為自己外公挺愛吃這。我外公應該算是美食家,所以老實說,對於豆汁這東西,許多傳聞中的說法我是將信未信的。<br /><br />怎麼說呢?上網查查吧,大約「沒有一個人」說過這東西好吃。欸真不誇張,你可能查到有些人說它「地道北京」、有些人說它嚐起來「甜酸」(我很懷疑這個人的味蕾),不過絕大部份您能找到的豆汁食評,真抱歉,大約是「臭的」、「臭酸的」、「不是人吃的」、「那是壞掉的吧?」等等。我總是讀讀這些文章,然後想著住在美國加州我親愛的外公跟我說起北京豆汁好滋味的臉色。<br /><br />什麼嘛。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SwmGyAUnf6I/AAAAAAAAB4I/firr1im2FCQ/s1600/%E6%93%9A%E8%AA%AA%E4%BB%A5%E5%89%8D%E5%AF%8C%E8%B2%B4%E4%BA%BA%E5%AE%B6%E5%90%83%E6%9C%89%E5%A4%B1%E8%BA%AB%E5%88%86%E7%9A%84%E7%81%8C%E8%85%B8%EF%BC%8C%E5%85%B6%E5%AF%A6%E6%98%AF%E8%96%AF%E7%B2%89%E5%92%8C%E9%BA%B5%E7%B2%89%E5%81%9A%E6%88%90.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5407001021273046946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 266px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SwmGyAUnf6I/AAAAAAAAB4I/firr1im2FCQ/s400/%E6%93%9A%E8%AA%AA%E4%BB%A5%E5%89%8D%E5%AF%8C%E8%B2%B4%E4%BA%BA%E5%AE%B6%E5%90%83%E6%9C%89%E5%A4%B1%E8%BA%AB%E5%88%86%E7%9A%84%E7%81%8C%E8%85%B8%EF%BC%8C%E5%85%B6%E5%AF%A6%E6%98%AF%E8%96%AF%E7%B2%89%E5%92%8C%E9%BA%B5%E7%B2%89%E5%81%9A%E6%88%90.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />「想吃些什麼?」初次到北京,北京的合作夥伴Billy問。<br />「有豆汁焦圈!我要一套。」我翻著菜譜,點完了愛窩窩驢打滾等等一輪(真是相當不客氣),看見豆汁焦圈,一套不過四元人民幣,非常想點。畢竟對於我,這可真是一種神祕食物。<br />「你要吃這玩意兒?」Billiy一臉詫異地問。<br />北京的合作夥伴多半不是北京當地人,有內蒙的、東北的、山西的,不過Billy是道地北京人,世代居住於此。<br />「很難吃嗎?」我想Billy是老北京,問他總該最準。<br />「呃,這個嘛,那東西我是不吃的。難吃極了。不過我見過一個老臺灣人吃這東西,他可以喝完一碗豆汁不皺眉。那是我見過唯一一個可以喝完豆汁的,真是好傢伙。」<br />「所以他覺得好喝?」雖然不論嚐起來如何,我都打算點來試試。不過如果有除了我外公以外的任何人覺得豆汁好喝,對即將要喝下豆汁的我而言絕對是件好事。至少給點信心。<br />「他從來沒這樣說過。我想他是為了健康因素喝的。」Billy搔搔腦袋,無可無不可地說。<br /><br />據說豆汁冬天該喝燙的,暖胃暖身;夏天該喝涼,解暑消食。這是綠豆食品,傳說老旗人開始就吃這當早餐,,對身體非常好。Billy則說豆汁是窮人家吃食,圖的是營養,滋味要喝慣的人才受得了。我想我外公算是有點根底的人家出身,照這道理應該不致於喜好豆汁,所以上網查了查,又發現幾種說法,說這東西是不分貴賤的,如果說衣冠楚楚的人上小吃攤吃「灌腸」(北京另種平民化麵食小點),會被取笑;但若是去吃豆汁就是合情合理,吃豆汁說來不分貴賤。另外,吃豆汁必配焦圈鹹菜,焦圈是什麼不得而知,估量大概像是油條一類。<br /><br />是的,對豆汁認知趨近於零的我,下意識把這東西當成豆漿油條一類,不覺得可怕,等豆汁一上來,很誠實地說,長得也挺像豆漿油條。<br /><br />一套四元的豆汁套餐看來豐富,除了一碗豆汁,還附上一碟形似將油條迷你化、炸得焦酥又兜成手環狀的麵食,那就是焦圈了,另附一盤看來普通的鹹菜絲。<br /><br />「妳喝看看,喝不來就算,別勉強。」<br /><br />我這人一向個性要強。聽著Billy這樣說,越覺得要認真一試,一舉碗就嘟嘟嘟喝好一大口。<br />「好吃嗎?」<br />「還行。」雖然來沒幾天,已經知道北京人說話聲口,知道「還行」可以拿來逞強一說,硬稱是好滋味。不過實際上呢?這豆汁,根本是餿掉了吧?酸不說,重點是味道嗆,有發酵過度的味,又還不是奶類製品發酵的氣味,比較像是溽暑中放了幾天的剩菜,將要發霉前那股氣味。欸,吃這會不會腹瀉啊?<br /><br />「我說Jasmine啊你別硬撐,不愛吃就算了。」<br />我不肯,還要強,想起據說混著焦圈一塊吃味道會好點,乾脆一氣咬一大口焦圈、又吞一嘴鹹菜絲,再灌下一口豆汁。說來奇怪,那股臭臭酸酸的味道居然真的少了幾分,變得比較能夠忍受。不過,也只是比較能夠忍受而已(到底為什麼外公如此想念這味道,真是個謎)。最後我還是沒能當另個喝完豆汁的台灣傳奇,碗裡畢竟還是留下了大半 (聽說這樣算是成績好的了)。<br /><br />寫下此文時又是身處北京時分。今年十一月的北京據說是十六年來最冷,一連下了三場大雪,以至於除了公事、與親戚碰面,根本不想離開飯店。另位知道我「豆汁冒險記」的北京朋友趕來飯店相會,見了面就是一番取笑。「欸,天冷去喝碗熱豆汁唄?」<br /><br />呃。<br /><br />呃……<br /><br />我才不要。<br /><br /><div></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-87544387505205598882009-11-04T02:18:00.000-08:002009-11-04T02:40:10.350-08:00【彧馨吃館子】燒鵝不如皮蛋<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SvFZfe6KPEI/AAAAAAAAB3Y/o8bHqp9YuWA/s1600-h/%E9%9B%96%E7%84%B6%E6%B2%B9%E4%BA%AE%E8%82%89%E5%8D%BB%E7%9B%B8%E7%95%B6%E7%A1%AC...JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400195825601756226" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SvFZfe6KPEI/AAAAAAAAB3Y/o8bHqp9YuWA/s400/%E9%9B%96%E7%84%B6%E6%B2%B9%E4%BA%AE%E8%82%89%E5%8D%BB%E7%9B%B8%E7%95%B6%E7%A1%AC...JPG" /></a><strong>原刊於UDN聯合新聞網2009.11.04<br /></strong>Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />燒鵝哪有比不過皮蛋的道理?理論上是如此,不過吃了鏞記數次,卻是馬上知道此話真義。<br /><br />第一次吃鏞記燒鵝,還是在2002年。當時慕名而去,一見店舖好大的氣派,老實說還真有點嚇到。素來喜歡港式餐館,總是習慣小小店鋪的琳瑯滿目,鏞記一點不小,在中環地價奇貴無比的蘭桂坊一帶坐擁龐大店面不說,樓高三層,樓樓滿座,在香港是非常氣派的鋪子了。<br /><br />「賣燒鹅可以賣成這個樣子,想來肯定是很好吃的。」我猜想。<br /><br />看看牌價,相當不便宜,因為小氣,乾脆叫一碟相對划算的燒鵝飯。都是鵝嘛,應該不至於差太多。燒鵝飯還沒有來,跑堂先送上一碟小菜。那是一碟皮蛋,底下襯著粉紅色的薑,看起來不很起眼,但是很香。怕壞了胃口,沒有先動小菜,忍著直等到上了燒鵝飯。<br /><br />鵝飯很香,黃澄澄的鵝油滲在熱騰騰的米粒上,滋味說不出的好,雖然讓另外點的帶子相較起來變得清淡。只不過所在意的鵝肉本身,老實說有點柴,皮也不好咬開,雖然皮下那層油香得吸引人,但是吃鵝肉總不能只吃油吧。當然,鵝肉本來不好煮是知道的,味道不差亦表示調味別有獨到,那麼也許是因為點的是燒鵝飯吧?切開大剁的散塊鵝肉部位大約揀選得隨便,若是完完整整叫一隻半隻燒鵝應該會兩樣吧。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SvFZY-n2qZI/AAAAAAAAB3Q/qUJ8SJBUtlU/s1600-h/%E4%B8%8D%E8%B5%B7%E7%9C%BC%E7%9A%84%E5%A5%BD%E5%90%83%E7%9A%AE%E8%9B%8B.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400195713855826322" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SvFZY-n2qZI/AAAAAAAAB3Q/qUJ8SJBUtlU/s400/%E4%B8%8D%E8%B5%B7%E7%9C%BC%E7%9A%84%E5%A5%BD%E5%90%83%E7%9A%AE%E8%9B%8B.JPG" /></a><br />結果一頓飯下來,印象最深的居然是那碟不起眼的薑皮蛋,吃入口皮蛋軟嫩味香,薑片輕酸淡甜,配得正好。事後查查資料,說是皮蛋本身並沒什麼祕方,靠得就是經驗。鏞記製作皮蛋的數量龐大,醃製的時間控制在28到30天之間,據說這時味道最好,過了這時間就會過期走味,此外沒什麼其他特別之處。<br /><br />不過鏞記有名的可是燒鵝,難道不該更是老經驗嗎?<br /><br />猜想這是錯點燒鵝飯的問題,是以隔了兩年,再度站在鏞記門口時,還是決定試試「招牌燒鵝」的滋味。結果鵝肉的部分狀況是一樣的,依舊又老又柴咬不動,唯一差別在於這次沒有配飯,可惜豐美的鵝油,白白淋了一盤子。味道完全未變的還是那碟皮蛋,雖然說不上味道到底與別處有哪裡不一樣,大約就比一般的皮蛋味厚點香點,薑嫩些甜些,可是咬進嘴裡就是知道不一樣,很奇妙。<br /><br />「一定是因為妳們坐在一樓的緣故,」一位死命為鏞記護航的朋友這樣說,「鏞記一樓的茶資便宜點,說不定菜色就因此比較怠慢;二樓以上多半是周遭寫字樓主管級請客或觀光客去的,菜色應該會比較當心,搞不好就是差在這。」雖然明明都是同個烤爐出來的鵝,這種說法簡直沒道理,不過好吧,就因為這點隔年再去鏞記一次,指名要坐三樓,菜色還是不死心的招牌燒鵝。<br /><br />好。結果這次的燒鵝來了一盤涼的,一絲熱氣沒冒,我的心也涼了半截。味道嘛,都是涼的了自然沒什麼好說。<br /><br />「皮蛋很好吃呢!」這次一同來的朋友根本沒來過香港,他將咬不動的涼掉燒鵝堆在小盤子上,伸手夾了一筷子皮蛋後像是發現新大陸這樣說。<br /><br />依據美食家蔡瀾所著《蔡瀾常去食肆五十間》的說法,鏞記一天要賣掉三百隻燒鵝,其製作的手法講究到木炭條都要是從新加坡來的才行,燒製的手法繁複,蔡瀾先生沒寫出來,只說偷師不如買現成乾脆,因為實在太麻煩了。<br /><br />我仔細回憶過去三吃燒鵝的悲慘經驗,還能說什麼呢?大約是太沒口福了吧?仔細讀讀書裡另一段關於皮蛋的描述,原來鏞記皮蛋販售所得的營利全數分給員工當作福利金!<br /><br />難道因為如此員工特別當心嗎?<br /><br />註1:鏞記的皮蛋有裝盒外賣,09年8月的價格是六十港幣,四個蛋兩包薑,相當不便宜。另外值得推薦的是鵝肝腸和臘腸,滋味厚美。<br /><br />註2:《蔡瀾常去食肆五十間》裡另外花了相當篇幅推荐鏞記其他菜式,也許除了燒鵝,下次該叫點別的也未可知。 </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-3276418691696920542009-10-19T22:29:00.000-07:002009-10-19T22:33:06.183-07:00【彧馨吃館子】話說全聚德<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/St1K75GTjhI/AAAAAAAAB1Y/ovbo6bzLjVk/s1600-h/%E5%88%87%E6%88%90%E8%8A%B1%E8%88%AC%E7%9A%84%E7%82%B8%E9%B4%A8%E5%BF%83%2B...JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394550321459727890" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/St1K75GTjhI/AAAAAAAAB1Y/ovbo6bzLjVk/s400/%E5%88%87%E6%88%90%E8%8A%B1%E8%88%AC%E7%9A%84%E7%82%B8%E9%B4%A8%E5%BF%83%2B...JPG" /></a><strong>原刊於UDN聯合新聞網2009.10.20</strong><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />到北京,如果居然沒有試試烤鴨,似乎怎麼都說不過去。可是賣北京烤鴨的店家何其多,要挑哪一家吃卻是大學問。<br /><br />「全聚德吧?」我提議,畢竟在北京不過幾天,沒有時間一一品評,我抱著「死觀光客心態」,去招牌老字號怎麼樣也不算錯,至少可以大聲跟人家說:「欸,我可是去過全聚德的。」只不過要做東道主的朋友皺起了眉頭,十分為難地說:「全聚德啊,有名歸有名,可惜是有名的難吃,想吃烤鴨是吧?大董臨時去是吃不到的,那麼去鴨王好了,那裡的烤鴨也不壞。」<br /><br />坦白說,全聚德的惡名昭彰當然不是沒聽過,說是貴又難吃服務還差,不過那是好幾年前聽說的,如今如何不清楚,何況是一百五十年老字號的「全聚德」嘛,實在想試試。沒死心,繼續追問:「真的那麼糟糕嗎?好歹也是百年老店啊!試試嘛。」軟求硬磨,很可惜都沒用,我秉持著「出錢為大」的真理放棄爭辯,吃完一頓也不能說糟的鴨王宴。<br /><br />第二晚,另名朋友作東,我的「死觀光客心態」沒被打退。「我還是想吃全聚德。」「全聚德?好吧,不過全聚德就只有前門的老店好吃,要先訂位。」這個朋友阿沙力得多,看來今晚可以吃到正宗北京烤鴨。<br /><br />我喜歡烤鴨,在台灣吃過幾間相當不錯的烤鴨,比如宋廚小館、比如國賓的川菜館、比如龍都酒樓略有點港式風味的烤鴨,我都很喜歡,卻也一直好奇所謂的「老字號烤鴨」到底有什麼不同,回憶在紐約吃過的楓林閣,師傅也都號稱是從北京來,但是烤鴨的味道跟台北的卻沒有大不同。<br /><br />昨夜吃的鴨王多少跟台北烤鴨不太相近,主要的分別是鴨皮。台北吃過的鴨皮脆,皮上抹過油亮的麥芽糖讓皮薄脆甜蜜,如果烤得功夫好,不沾醬也相當好吃;鴨王的皮一點不脆,是酥的,入口即化,可惜油蒿味重,吃不出鴨子香,裝潢一般、服務一般,老實說沒什麼讓人驚豔。全聚德的烤鴨據說也是走「酥」而非「脆」的路線,我有點怕也會像是鴨王那樣,一股子油味而不香,那未免有點掃興。<br /><br />走過天安門廣場來到前門大街上的全聚德老店,先是門面就先聲奪人,闊氣開成兩個大店舖似的仿古大牌樓、燈火明亮,服務員個個身材高挑笑容甜美舉止可親,我雖然是女生,都不免要多看幾眼。一樓的大廚櫥窗透明,可以清楚看見裡面作業,確實都拿著帶點香氣的果樹之類木柴現做烤鴨,猜想等下上桌的鴨子必定也香。<br /><br />上桌先吃涼菜,芥末鴨掌還可以,鹹水鴨肝很不壞,不過跟昨晚鴨王吃的相去不遠,所以說不上什麼特別。但是後來上的一道炸鴨心和鴨湯魚翅都相當好,尤其是鴨心,讓原本不怎麼吃內臟的我也夾了好幾筷。聲音好聽的服務員送菜上桌時必定先行介紹怎麼吃、菜的特色在哪,送上烤鴨前還先來段全聚德歷史,並附上我們將吃掉的鴨子專屬的「烤鴨身分證」。<br /><br />老北京大約會覺得這套很做作,不過我是觀光客啊,被這樣注意的款待不管怎麼說都是很高興的。<br /><br />當然,重點還是在烤鴨。<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/St1K2EkJ9DI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/0PQUk6_5pHY/s1600-h/%E6%AD%A3%E5%9C%A8%E7%89%87%E9%B4%A8%E7%9A%84%E5%B8%AB%E7%88%B6%2B%E6%94%9D...JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5394550221458502706" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/St1K2EkJ9DI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/0PQUk6_5pHY/s400/%E6%AD%A3%E5%9C%A8%E7%89%87%E9%B4%A8%E7%9A%84%E5%B8%AB%E7%88%B6%2B%E6%94%9D...JPG" /></a>鴨上桌首先看師傅片鴨,全聚德師傅手法俐落,片出來的皮肉分離、擺盤美麗。撿起一塊鴨皮試試,居然入口不過三秒鐘就化了一嘴,雖然油的程度不輸鴨王,香氣卻要好得多。此外包鴨的荷葉餅薄而有彈性,包著鴨肉很適合。昨夜吃的鴨王餅以小燒餅取代,雖然因為鴨子油,這樣配法不能說有錯,但是燒餅的面積畢竟還是太大,包著鴨肉不但難咬,也很難吃得出鴨肉的美味。不過,我認為最神奇的部份還是鴨肉,台灣即使有名的烤鴨,一放涼肉還是會變得難吃。全聚德的烤鴨不會,一席邊喝酒邊吃鴨,吃到終了,夾起最後幾片鴨肉都還是豐滑幼嫩,吃得非常過癮。<br /><br />當然也不是全無缺點,全聚德裡唯一吃不來的是甜麵醬。北京當地的菜多半過鹹,甜麵醬不例外,簡直要成了鹹麵醬,不管是鴨王或全聚德,以我的口味來說都實在太鹹了點,不過瑕不掩瑜,不管怎麼說,全聚德的鴨確實在水準之上。<br /><br />「到底為什麼這麼多人不喜歡全聚德呢?」今天這頓飯讓我吃得一頭霧水,朋友總算給我一個合情合理的解答「我在北京住了四年,長城走了十五次、故宮走了四十二次、全聚德呢?至少吃了一百次!所有朋友、客戶,來了都指定吃這個。大部分的台幹在這邊都像我這樣,都吃怕啦,只要提到全聚德就搖頭。另外,全聚德相當不便宜,」朋友拿起帳單讓我看看,四人一瓶酒居然吃掉二千二人民幣!「你看這個價錢是能常吃的嗎?」<br /><br />這,原來啊!<br /><br />全聚德前門老店<br />北京前門大街32號<br />電話:010-67011379<br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-58833515669915519102009-10-07T10:32:00.000-07:002009-10-07T10:42:09.481-07:00【彧馨吃館子】超美味的轉運豬扒包<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SszQ3I3iwwI/AAAAAAAAB04/JIMcBAV9Hgc/s1600-h/%E8%BD%89%E9%81%8B%E8%B1%AC%E6%89%92%E5%8C%85.JPG"><strong><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389912499747472130" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 266px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/SszQ3I3iwwI/AAAAAAAAB04/JIMcBAV9Hgc/s400/%E8%BD%89%E9%81%8B%E8%B1%AC%E6%89%92%E5%8C%85.JPG" border="0" /></strong></a><br /><strong>原刊於UDN聯合新聞網2009.10.06</strong><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br />實際上到底去了多少次香港?老實說還真的算不出來,但是從1996年到2009年間,的確在香港吃了很多、很多的地方倒是沒錯。<br /><br />這期間,很不幸,多少覺得香港飲食水準逐步下滑中。<br /><br />當然雖說如此,大部分的飲食經驗還是很美妙,特別是平民小吃,水準大半還能維持住,比較討厭的是飯館,不論是大飯店、小餐廳,只要是有跑堂能好好坐著吃頓飯的地方,大抵難逃水準下落的情況。其中最令人失望的一次,要算08年十月的香港行。<br /><br />那是四天小旅行,行程一如往例,開展出來全都是吃。我同由新加坡飛來碰面的朋友約定好,四天大約預定要走訪二十五個可供大宴小酌的地點(很能吃對吧?),結果從開始一連兩天,簡直要邊吃邊掉淚。<br /><br />可不是吃太多吃壞肚子,更不是美味到足以颷淚的程度,老實說,根本是大失所望。先是幾間從前常去的館子水準一落千丈,曾名列最愛的老字號糖水舖,搬了新址後居然連海帶綠豆沙這樣基本款甜品,味道都可以差錯到令人驚愕的程度,原本非常喜歡的點心樓,食客毫不見減少,可是等了半天吃到嘴裡的卻與記憶中迥然不同。這還不算,排定造訪的店鋪不是消失了、就是毫無預警地掛出「當日休業」的牌子,我因此找不到大良八記和葫蘆館(是搬家還是歇業了呢?)、廟街終年無休的興記煲仔飯居然因為「店主家有要事」休業兩天、西貢滿記店鋪裝修暫歇半日(休息時間雖短,問題是實在沒時間再跑一趟),清水灣的影灣園更是給場婚宴包下,完全不得其門而入。<br /><br />差不多是這種狀況。<br /><br />身心俱疲,在試完某間有名的不得了的餐廳後(當然也是很糟糕,且已額滿三次不再錄用),抱著失望心情,帶朋友橫跨過馬路。「好吧,這裡的鹼水麵和豬扒包都還不錯,不過這次的運氣這樣背,還是不要掛保證好了。」我十分沮喪地說。沿路不停拍胸脯跟老是抱怨「新加坡食物難吃極了」的朋友掛保證,說是必定能讓他吃到一流美味,結果卻是朋友沿路默默吃著不說話,我也垂頭喪氣。<br /><br />黃枝記可以不令人失望嗎?<br /><br />位於鏞記正對面的小店黃枝記,是從澳門移植過來的店鋪,主要是間麵店,也兼賣粥品小菜。麵很好,我本來喜歡廣東的鹼水麵,喜歡那份爽口彈牙,可是極厭惡似乎難以避免的鹼水味。黃枝記據說只以蛋汁和麵,為求新鮮鹼水也加得少,是不是還有其他秘方不得而知,但麵少了那股鹼水味是事實。不過來此處吃不吃麵還無關緊要,我必點的是豬扒包。<br /><br />豬扒包是澳門出名的平民美食,香港也有很不少地方提供這種小吃,這份點心看起來不難做,無非就是兩片麵包夾塊豬肉,講究點的也許還有幾片生菜、麵包上或許塗抹點牛油,大概就是這樣。我吃過相當數量不同餐廳販售的豬扒包,黃枝記,至少在目前為止,毫無疑問列名第一。<br /><br />「有那麼好吃嗎?」一路上默默吞食不抱怨的朋友終於第一次發出質疑。盯著端上來非常不起眼的豬扒包,「這不就是兩片粗麵包夾肉而已嗎?」胃容量已經接近極限的朋友看到賣相的確不怎麼樣的豬扒包,簡直就想直接拒絕。<br /><br />「哎呀試看看嘛,反正也被騙那麼多次。」左右端詳,眼前的豬扒包還真是從前吃了數次的模樣,完全不吸引人,這反而令我昇起信心。要說樣子醜大概黃枝記的豬扒包也可列名第一,麵包就是極簡單粗啵啵像是發酵沒發好的樣式,中間的豬肉不但帶骨,還一定會突出麵包之外,絕不是整整齊齊切好放進去,而且除了麵包和肉,別的配料醬料一律沒有,簡簡單單。<br /><br />喔,完全就是眼前端上來的豬扒包模樣。<br /><br />朋友堅持只點一份,所以請店家把豬扒包一切成二,朋友意興闌珊,無可無不可地斜眼看著。老實說,我也很飽,但覺得有必要再給自己的招牌一點信心。<br /><br />「我們可以再點一份嗎?」食畢。朋友咂咂嘴,忍不住開口。<br /><br />「哈!就跟你說了麵包粗啵啵才能吸收豐腴的肉汁,肉要帶骨味才會美且有嚼勁,再說只要醃料得宜,另外放的醬汁根本多餘,生菜更不好,妨礙口感整體的一致性不說,水份還會稀釋麵包裡的肉汁,你還不信呢!」終於挽回點面子的我真是得意起來。<br /><br />值得一提的是,自從吃過豬扒包後,香港美食行就搭上順風車,再也沒有踩上地雷,不管是半島飯店二樓的嘉麟樓港式點心、彌敦道上的小吃雞蛋仔、北角德成行的蛋捲,還是旺角富記的粥品,全都好吃的不得了。甚至在東方文華的Pierre餐廳碰上一年只來香港兩個星期的米其三星大廚兼老闆Pierre先生,主廚親自坐鎮,連普通的行政午餐附上的甜點都精緻無比。<br /><br />「我覺得都是豬扒包帶來的好運。」朋友說。<br /><br />自此黃枝記的豬扒包被我正式命名為「轉運豬扒包」,成為香港行必訪的私房「吃」點,就今年度八月底的最新一次探訪,美味程度依舊,果然難能可貴!<br /><br /><br />黃枝記粥麵地址:中環威靈頓街15號B地下<br /><div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-67820792470562314282009-09-14T02:20:00.000-07:002009-09-14T02:29:58.661-07:00【彧馨吃館子】一口牛丸半口湯<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/Sq4LzJAw_pI/AAAAAAAABzc/-T_sNKdxEuY/s1600-h/%E7%88%86%E6%BC%BF%E7%9A%84%E7%9C%9F%E7%9B%B8.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 266px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381251577974685330" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/Sq4LzJAw_pI/AAAAAAAABzc/-T_sNKdxEuY/s400/%E7%88%86%E6%BC%BF%E7%9A%84%E7%9C%9F%E7%9B%B8.JPG" /></a> <strong>原刊於2009.9.8UDN聯合新聞網</strong><br /><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />真抱歉,實在不是周星馳先生的大粉絲,尤其不愛看他的出名電影「食神」。這沒辦法,莫文蔚在電影裡的扮相實在有點糟糕,男女主角的個性又都古怪,怎麼樣也無法習慣。<br /><br />話雖如此,電視老是重播,零碎也看了數次。見了美味食物總會嘴饞的我,對電影裡跟吃有關的大小事物興致濃厚,雖然聽著配上的好好笑對白會忍不住捧肚子,還是會下點功夫研究看看什麼是『黯然消魂飯』、『錦繡多味魚』或『皇帝炒飯』,偶爾也會對像是:<br /><br /><strong>『<span style="font-family:verdana;">鹼水麵沒有過過冷水,所以麵裡面都是鹼水味;魚丸也沒有魚味,但是妳為了掩飾,特別加上了咖哩汁想把它做成咖哩魚丸,這麼做太天真了!因為妳煮的時間不夠,咖哩的味道只留在表面上,完全沒有進到裡面去,泡進湯裡又完全被沖淡了,好好的一顆咖哩魚丸讓妳做得是既沒有魚味又沒有咖哩味,失敗!』</span></strong><br /><br />這樣的台詞頗以為然。<br /><br />不過,對電影裡的「爆漿瀨尿牛丸」,總當它是戲。牛肉丸子有彈性味道好是一回事,但要說可以拿來打乒乓球、咬一口還會噴汁,這怎麼想都是很奇怪的事嘛。<br /><br />於是在香港訪友期間,偶然提到周星馳和這部電影時,我忍不住誇讚編劇這樣的神奇點子,朋友卻是一臉「咦?原來你不知道呀」的表情。<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/Sq4Ltms_nRI/AAAAAAAABzU/7fKwHMfLbWI/s1600-h/%E4%B9%9F%E5%BE%88%E5%A5%BD%E5%90%83%E7%9A%84%E9%AD%9A%E9%BA%B5.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 266px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5381251482865605906" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_UgGeTeGYMAM/Sq4Ltms_nRI/AAAAAAAABzU/7fKwHMfLbWI/s400/%E4%B9%9F%E5%BE%88%E5%A5%BD%E5%90%83%E7%9A%84%E9%AD%9A%E9%BA%B5.JPG" /></a><br />「瀨尿牛丸嗎?還真的有唷。」久居香港的朋友這樣說。「據說《食神》這部戲的發想就是因為那家牛丸店,可不是空穴來風的。」朋友興致勃勃,一面如實告知。<br /><br />「真的有?」我半信半疑,「那這個爆漿牛丸是怎麼爆漿的呀?」老實說,這點是最好奇的部份,換作是您也會如是吧?畢竟是紥紥實實的丸子,裡面怎麼能容納湯汁?又不是水餃湯包,麵皮多少還可以盛裝一些。<br /><br />香港人愛吃丸子,手打牛肉丸,顧名思義,是把牛肉又槌又打,打成了漿再捏成丸子,猶如魚漿那般,要包點濃稠的起司還是魚卵什麼的,大約不是問題(事實上許多火鍋料也正這樣做),但如果是液體,肉漿的空隙不小,怎能夠不讓其湯汁滿溢流失?<br /><br />朋友拉著我來到旺角街上,指著路口的《樂園牛丸大王》,不誇張,轉去轉來這個招牌我見了三次,不是迷路,而是小小的旺角竟開了幾間。<br /><br />「這一間才是老店」朋友說。「吃之前妳要不要試著猜看看原因?」<br />「能包著湯汁,是腸衣嗎?」猜想可以包住汁液的,大約跟製作香腸的腸衣道理類似。<br />「若是腸衣,說不定可以喔,但是腸衣硬硬的擱嘴應該很難吃吧?」<br /><br />一邊胡亂猜測,一面看著菜單,點了黑椒、花膠、招牌幾種不同口味的牛丸,其中花膠吸引了目光。謎底該不會就是它吧?我猜想。第一次知道花膠彷彿是從金庸小說裡,再來聽說有道失傳的名菜「鳳凰蛋」,就是將各種禽鳥的蛋汁調味後灌進大花膠裡蒸熟,放涼了再將凝固的蛋汁切片。每每聽見花膠似乎都是些不可思議的料理呢!<br /><br />其實說穿了,花膠就是大魚的魚鰾,算是氣囊,自然可以盛裝溶液,也叫「肚」從前鮑參肚翅是並列為珍貴食材。講究的人吃魚鰾還要分公母,說雄魚的鰾厚,嚼食有勁,母魚的鰾薄,適口易入味。<br /><br />那麼,花膠牛丸是把魚鰾裡塞進湯汁、封在丸子裡?似乎是這樣的。牛丸裡的花膠大約是母魚肚,軟而薄,吃不出什麼味道。我小心地小小咬著邊,深怕裡頭滾燙的湯汁要噴出來,然而即使是這樣小心了,第二口咬開還是噴了同桌好友一眼鏡的湯湯水水。<br /><br />食神裡形容這種『爆漿牛丸』是這樣說的:<br /><br />「從來沒試過這麼清新脫俗的感覺,牛肉的鮮、撒尿蝦的甜,混在一起的味道竟然比老鼠斑有過之而無不及,簡直比我的初戀更加詩情畫意!」<br /><br />有沒有這麼好吃且不置評,但自從第一次上門之後,陸陸續續又去了三、四次,不為別的,就想讓不同朋友享受一下「丸裡乾坤」的滋味,而幾乎沒有一次令人失望,唯一可惜是製作水準不很穩定,大約五六顆裡總有一兩顆丸子的花膠破了洞,無法得到「爆漿」的「驚嚇」。<br /><br />今日朋友傳了旺角照片給我,我竟因此想起也在旺角的這間店,恍惚間彷如彈跳的爆漿牛丸正在口中。<br /><br />下次吧,我想。下回再去香港,必當再去試試這有趣滋味。 </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-4750553268087268412008-08-18T02:59:00.001-07:002008-08-18T09:45:29.436-07:00【維也納咖啡館週記】蘭特曼咖啡館的土耳其咖啡<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SKmnFnTjS9I/AAAAAAAAAK8/shakn1Y8urk/s1600-h/IMG_0568.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5235899756687084498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SKmnFnTjS9I/AAAAAAAAAK8/shakn1Y8urk/s400/IMG_0568.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />據說維也納的咖啡起源自土耳其,那麼在維也納的任何一間咖啡館都能看到土耳其咖啡販售便不是一件太過奇怪的事。<br /><br />咖啡的種類不少,來到維也納以前,我已經喝過很淡的美式咖啡、很醇的義式咖啡、很醉的愛爾蘭咖啡、很奶的法國咖啡和很甜的越南咖啡,其中最喜歡的是很甜的越南咖啡。喜歡,也許只是喜歡那種特別不一樣的呈現方式,或者特別喜歡一汪咖啡喝畢之後殘留在杯底甜滋滋的煉乳滋味。<br /><br />原本在進行「維也納咖啡館主題之旅」前,也規劃了各種不同模樣的維也納咖啡品嚐,如同在<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/06/blog-post_25.html">哈維卡咖啡館系列文章</a>裡提到過的:<br /><br />「維也納咖啡是這樣的,有大杯和小杯的加奶咖啡、大壺和小壺隨你加不加奶的咖啡、什麼都不加的黑咖啡、面上浮著厚厚一層奶泡的咖啡。如果奶泡換成了鮮奶油或冰淇淋,就又是另外一種咖啡;還有加了酒的咖啡:柑橘酒、奶油酒、咖啡酒,咖啡+奶油酒、白蘭地、伏特加、經典的蘭姆酒…很多很多咖啡,每一種都有不同名字。」<br /><br />這樣多的咖啡,不嘗試看看似乎很可惜。所以在一間又一間的咖啡館漫遊之中,我試著點起每一杯不同模樣的咖啡。有些放在厚重的玻璃杯裡、有些放在漂亮的白瓷杯、有些加了很多牛奶、有些是名為「金咖啡」的什麼也不加咖啡,面上飄浮著乳白色鮮奶油的、加了眾多水果烈酒的、濃縮成小小一杯的…<br /><br />直到我的胃再也受不了,開始不得不規規矩矩的只叫<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/07/hauskaffee.html">「一壺咖啡」</a>。<br /><br />開始<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/07/hauskaffee.html">「一壺咖啡」</a>前最末的精采結尾,就是蘭特曼的土耳其咖啡。<br /><br />土耳其咖啡的煮法是將咖啡粉放在一至二人份的小小銅壺中,直接在爐子上煮沸。這樣的作法會在杯底留下厚厚的一層咖啡渣,有情趣的人喝完還能夠看看杯底殘渣的圖案,預測近日的運勢。蘭德曼的土耳其咖啡就是這樣連著銅壺送上來,附著不可或缺的一杯水(在維也納喝咖啡附水本來也就是土耳其人的習慣),另外還有一塊方方正正的軟糖。<br /><br />「這是配咖啡的,就叫土耳其軟糖。」家裡常備土耳其咖啡以便隨時解癮的朋友這樣說。<br />我輕輕地咬上一口,軟糖非常甜,咬起來像是濃縮過後的棉花糖,軟滋滋、甜膩膩,配上苦得剛好的土耳其咖啡,非常棒。<br /><br />奧地利超市到處賣得有一包包的土耳其軟糖,和一包包土耳其咖啡的專用咖啡粉,自此雖然在咖啡館晃遊時還是固定叫上<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/07/hauskaffee.html">「一壺咖啡」</a>相伴,卻在深夜裡回到小公寓時央求朋友煮起標準的土耳其式。微涼的夜裡踡起腳指頭,窩坐在椅上,聊著白日各自的遭遇,啜飲濃香的咖啡,一邊還咬著軟糖。咖啡喝盡,等候尚未冰透的玫瑰馬丁尼時,就湊著燈光數起杯底的殘渣。<br /><br />「你明天運氣會很好喔。」<br />「會撿到錢嗎?」「會碰上帥氣男人啦!」<br /><br />土耳其的維也納之夜總會在胡言亂語中度過,而這就是我對土耳其咖啡的記憶。<br /><br />雖然文章跟蘭德曼的關係好像不深,不過確實是在此喝到第一杯、也拍到第一杯的土耳其咖啡。不過照片怎麼看都有點做作的樣子就是了。笑~<br /><br /><div></div></div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-29618478071063360992008-07-29T09:05:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:54.989-08:00學學文創美食社群的第一場聚會<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9Hqb4RKqI/AAAAAAAAAKs/mmD7tCw97sM/s1600-h/IMG_4992.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228476486764276386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9Hqb4RKqI/AAAAAAAAAKs/mmD7tCw97sM/s400/IMG_4992.JPG" border="0" /></a> Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />坦白說,這是一篇宣告戒酒文。<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9HhSoTwUI/AAAAAAAAAKk/rGnuDcTB7Ug/s1600-h/IMG_4940.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228476329662595394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9HhSoTwUI/AAAAAAAAAKk/rGnuDcTB7Ug/s400/IMG_4940.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />在學學文創所舉辦的『美食社群』第一場聚會就醉得不像話,實在很對不起在現場被驚嚇的大家。對於自己起伏不定時好時壞的酒量和大膽包天的酒膽,雖早有警惕,但還是敗在王靈安老師的課程裡,我想我是對自己太有信心,對不叫『酒吧現場』的課程又太過放心之故。</div><div><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228475412728094290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9Gr6yFnlI/AAAAAAAAAKM/ow7m2sNWsgc/s400/IMG_4973.JPG" border="0" /><br />第一次知道王靈安老師是因為圓頂市集的課程,由於課程一直被標注在『高危險』範疇裡,所以我一直不肯、不願、不敢嘗試,在學學第一場美食社群活動裡,居然就是請到王靈安,或者該說,因為看到王靈安老師的名字所以馬上報名學學的美食社群,這不得不說是一種巧合。<br /><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228470301982546018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9CCbxZWGI/AAAAAAAAAJc/EoTP4fTUdXY/s400/IMG_4980.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br />所以我報名了。<br />參加了美食社群。<br />上課了。<br />然後喝掛了。 </p><p><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228471608979729570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9DOgtzrKI/AAAAAAAAAJk/rfI0rC0wf38/s400/IMG_4988.JPG" border="0" /><br />自己的錯所以沒什麼好說,只是十分對不起當天在現場被我所麻煩拖累的人,特別在此致上十二萬分的歉意。(其實也應該不會有學員來此觀看吧?因為彼此之間好像並不認識?)<br /></p><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9HOOS60FI/AAAAAAAAAKc/ABGsVQZqhzM/s1600-h/IMG_4993.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228476002081624146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9HOOS60FI/AAAAAAAAAKc/ABGsVQZqhzM/s400/IMG_4993.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />不過不管怎麼說,王老師的課很精采!<br /><br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228475037901406498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9GWGccQSI/AAAAAAAAAKE/NpvKi718r4w/s400/IMG_4962.JPG" border="0" /><br />總算第一次嚐到諸多不同等級、甚至頗富海味的威士忌。<br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228478125480161282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9JJ0klMAI/AAAAAAAAAK0/OvpGHcZLgTI/s400/IMG_4955.JPG" border="0" /><br />喝到好喝順口酒與果汁比例為四比六、王老師特製的Yellow Cocktail(這個名字應該可以取得更好吧?)<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228473120264368386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9EmesJMQI/AAAAAAAAAJs/USVQ8sHP6nw/s400/IMG_4953.JPG" border="0" /><br />居然標有年份、台灣買不到的干邑。</p><p><br /></p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228469066490596658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9A6hNKTTI/AAAAAAAAAJU/hpk5iaaPTnc/s400/IMG_4984.JPG" border="0" /><br />許許多多王老師花費心思調的好酒。 </p><p><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228474577338731570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9F7StvjDI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/QfalS71ROjs/s400/IMG_4951.JPG" border="0" /><br />有小菜。 </p><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9HFtb-b8I/AAAAAAAAAKU/FfA6w_ISiYE/s1600-h/IMG_4930.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228475855822286786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9HFtb-b8I/AAAAAAAAAKU/FfA6w_ISiYE/s400/IMG_4930.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />有初識就被彧馨嚇到的朋友。<br /><br /><div><div><div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9FIANtr7I/AAAAAAAAAJ0/A1K_fbJTkLU/s1600-h/IMG_4978.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228473696199225266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9FIANtr7I/AAAAAAAAAJ0/A1K_fbJTkLU/s400/IMG_4978.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />也有可愛的工作人員。<br /><br /><div><div><div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9AcC7mXCI/AAAAAAAAAJM/K6FtEyYAQJQ/s1600-h/IMG_4997.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228468542967798818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SI9AcC7mXCI/AAAAAAAAAJM/K6FtEyYAQJQ/s400/IMG_4997.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />那麼把這場當成是下台一鞠躬的酒會也不算是太糟的事吧?<br /><br />總而言之,出家門便不喝酒了。<br /><br /><br />我好像應該去參加危險性相對較低的攝影社群才是?<br /><br />關於如何參加學學的美食社群,你可以參考<a href="http://blog.chinatimes.com/charles0714/archive/2008/07/28/302869.html">這裏</a>。<br />關於王靈安老師的酒吧現場,您可以參考<a href="http://www.lamarche.com.tw/">圓頂市集</a>。<br />對了,王老師似乎也在學學開了類似課程,也許您也可以上<a href="http://www.xuexue.tw/">學學</a>去看看。<br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-76269071694869511272008-07-11T04:13:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:55.145-08:00【維也納咖啡館週記】德梅爾糕餅店˙令人難忘的Fachertorte生日蛋糕之一<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SHdf_iKZhgI/AAAAAAAAAJE/NOnHMvMHFD4/s1600-h/IMG_9707.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5221747838066198018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SHdf_iKZhgI/AAAAAAAAAJE/NOnHMvMHFD4/s400/IMG_9707.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />走過一間間的咖啡館,想吃蛋糕的慾望與日俱增。<br /><br />我嚴格說起來並不是喜好甜食的人,雖然放在法國糕點鋪子櫥窗裡、以果膠固定有如寶石般美麗的各式水果塔總會不由自主的讓我想放慢步子,或著,掏摸出錢包,將櫥窗裡的點心換個位子,換進自己嘴裡。<br /><br />不過我真的稱不上是很喜歡甜食的人。<br /><br />漫遊在維也納諸多咖啡館的時候,總會看到成列的蛋糕,不如巴黎那般精緻,起初也沒真的勾起食慾,不過,看起來總是很好吃的樣子,與巴黎點心總是看起來很美麗的樣子不同。這兩大咖啡館文化發源地有許多同與不同之處,我忍不住要這樣觀察起來。<br /><br />巴黎號稱美味之都,但在甜點上雖然都是漂亮的不可思議,但老實說變化不多,新口味也有限,雖然街上看到的每一個甜點都美麗非凡,但於我而言,視覺的享受遠勝於味覺;維也納不是,家家咖啡館都有自己的招牌甜點,花樣盡皆不同,好看與否很難說,但似乎都是很好吃的樣子。<br /><br />想在維也納吃蛋糕的慾望與日俱增同時,剛好碰上自己的生日,那麼,沒什麼理由不來塊犒賞自己的蛋糕吧?<br /><br />我走進德梅爾,這間二百年歷史以上的皇家御用甜品店,哈布斯王朝已然不在,但據說甜點的風味沒有二致。這我是無法懷疑的,光是眼前樣式繁多的蛋糕已足以讓人頭暈眼花。<br /><br />「想點什麼蛋糕呢?」德梅爾清一色的制服黑衣女侍詢問。<br />「……… 」無法回答。<br />「那麼喜歡巧克力、水果、起司、慕斯、派還是核果(nuts)口味的呢?」<br />「嗯,核果好了。」<br />「這一排都是核果類的蛋糕。」<br /><br />女侍指了整個桌子長的蛋糕種類這樣說,對於做下選擇一點幫助也沒有。<br /><br />我只差沒用放大鏡觀看檢查每個蛋糕。「請給我這個。」挑了看來最不起眼的奇怪蛋糕,切面呈現的顏色特別,不覺狐疑起是什麼口味來。不過,反正我生日,想吃什麼都可以吧?<br /><br /><br />所以桌上最後放著這個奇怪蛋糕和一壺咖啡了。<br /><br />正確的來說,是口味也是奇特美味的蛋糕喔。<br /><br />厚實的派皮香軟,包裹著一點點紫黑色果醬是前幾天在哈維卡也嚐過的黑棗,看來黑棗在維也納並不是一種日漸沒落的食材;往下一層,是肉桂香氣恰好的蘋果切片。不意外,維也納的酥皮蘋果派本來有名,做成其他甜點應該也很正常;再往下,是美味而油脂豐富的核桃泥欸!我熱愛核桃,一邊暗自開心一邊往最底層黑色的餡料挖去…完全沒想到是芝麻…不折不扣的黑芝麻泥,不像芝麻糊的甜膩,沒有芝麻糖的硬脆。我沒有料到會吃到用芝麻泥做成的蛋糕,老實說核桃泥也是一大意外。 <span style="color:#ff9966;">(在此更正,是吃起來很香的罌粟子.....感謝Chanteuse 的指正,在此之前沒吃過罌粟子做成的蛋糕,竟然以為是芝麻.....)<br /></span><br />這幾種東西混起來吃是什麼味啊?<br /><br />我像發現新大陸似地以不同混合方式吃將起來,核桃混蘋果、蘋果混芝麻、芝麻混黑棗、黑棗混核桃混蘋果……蘋果些微的酸味平衡核桃的黏稠,黑棗甜味足以帶起芝麻香。<br /><br />我一邊吃著一邊盤算要多叫幾種,如果這樣奇怪的蛋糕都能夠美味得充滿創意,德梅爾的其他蛋糕一定精采可期。<br /><br /><br />嗯。不過您知道的,人的肚子只有一個。<br /><br />但不管怎麼說,對於自己選的生日蛋糕很滿意。<br /><br /><br />關於德梅爾,也許您能看看這裡:<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/07/demel-konditorei.html">http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/07/demel-konditorei.html</a> 以及</div><div><a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/07/blog-post_13.html">http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/07/blog-post_13.html</a></div><div><br />關於奇怪的蛋糕,可以參考這裏:<a href="http://billboard.maisondelafrance.info/en/details.php?cid=127">http://billboard.maisondelafrance.info/en/details.php?cid=127</a><br /><br /><br />攝於維也納˙德梅爾糕餅店 </div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-26753707381847206442008-07-06T10:39:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:55.504-08:00【維也納咖啡館週記】卡爾廣場咖啡館的超大份早餐<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SHED_c0s5SI/AAAAAAAAAI8/bAgH-Xt3vWQ/s1600-h/IMG_8864.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5219957831702996258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SHED_c0s5SI/AAAAAAAAAI8/bAgH-Xt3vWQ/s400/IMG_8864.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><br />Copyright © Jas Chen </div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-51470662906318709242008-06-26T09:07:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:56.500-08:00【維也納咖啡館週記】哈維卡咖啡館Café Hawelka的布夫特爾Buchteln<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SGO_2umNhQI/AAAAAAAAAI0/Imo9wcB-eys/s1600-h/IMG_8843.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216223740367308034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SGO_2umNhQI/AAAAAAAAAI0/Imo9wcB-eys/s400/IMG_8843.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br /><a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/06/blog-post_25.html">深夜的維也納咖啡館</a>要點什麼呢?<br /><br />從早上起到晚上還沒賣完的不新鮮生菜?<br /><br />可以鹹得死人的炸豬排?(廚師應該也已經下班了吧?)<br /><br />擺在冰櫃子裏滿滿厚重巧克力和奶油的繽紛蛋糕?<br /><br />我一直是夜貓子,也一直喜愛深夜的咖啡館。不過,深夜的咖啡館,雖然精神食糧不虞匱乏,卻沒有什麼能填飽肚子的。所以說,當寫著「哈維卡咖啡館在夜裡十點之後會提供的布夫特爾(類似蒸式的麵包),深受許多作家、藝術家與音樂家喜愛」這樣的句子越入眼簾,那麼即便沒有哈維卡老先生的活咖啡傳奇、也沒有<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/06/henry-millercaf-hawelka.html">亨利˙米勒</a>的駐足,我還是會去哈維卡咖啡館。<br /><br />不為旁的,就為那個「晚上十點才會出爐的布夫特爾」。<br /><br />不過,布夫特爾是什麼呢?什麼叫做蒸式麵包呀?我百思不得其解,且不求甚解,反正好吃,叫做Buchteln就是了。我努力練著奇怪的發音,那麼到了據說沒有菜單的哈維卡,就一定可以叫出來了。<br /><br />老實說,並沒有深信旅遊書。<br /><br />我是無可救藥的懷疑論者。一邊拍著夜景一面走去深夜咖啡館的路上,我總懷疑『<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/06/caf-hawelka.html">傳說』開到半夜的哈維卡</a>說不定沒有開,而一路上只剩招牌亮著的大小店家和維也納朋友的沿路碎碎念「維也納根本沒有開這麼晚的店啦!」更加深我的疑惑。<br /><br /><br />店,當然是開著的。(不然也沒有這篇文章)<br /><br />於是坐進店裡,卻又開始懷疑真的會有晚上十點之後才有的糕點嗎?旅遊書上說哈維卡咖啡館沒有菜單,如今那張「應該不存在」的菜單正躺在眼前;那麼,書上說「會有 」的「夜裡十點之後才供應」的糕點,搞不好已經停售或根本沒有也很難講。(這,也不是沒碰過。)<br /><br />不過,最糟糕的是,大約太過興奮,我完全忘了Buchteln的發音。<br /><br />「我要十點之後才有的點心。」乾脆賴皮的這樣點起了菜。<br /><br />還真的有欸!<br /><br />蕙質蘭心的侍者根本只聽到「十點」這個關鍵字就頻頻點頭。沒等多久就送上一碟子灑滿糖粉、熱烘烘鬆軟軟的糕點。我左看右看,怎麼樣都像是家常做的海綿蛋糕,不過粗了點,似乎有些「蒸熟」的模樣,漂亮的鵝黃色令我聯想起雞蛋,而我是聽到雞蛋就覺得好吃的。<br /><br />挖了一小塊試試,好鬆軟可口!光是半夜吃到剛出爐的蛋糕已經夠讓人興奮,沒想到內餡另藏玄機。才挖第二口,內裡已經流出紫黑色的醬汁,一嚐大驚!真是好懷念好懷念的滋味,鬆軟熱烘的麵包裡包著的是熱騰騰的黑棗果醬!<br /><br />黑棗欸!如果您的年歲跟彧馨沒有相差太遠,應該還記得早期的蛋糕面上不一定有奶油,有的都叫「鮮奶油蛋糕」,白白一塊,上面放著紅綠糖漬罐頭櫻桃裝飾;若只叫蛋糕,通常是褐色紥實的老老實實的一塊,切面下來裡面是雞蛋色,蛋糕上的裝飾總也是不帶核的紅櫻桃和帶核的黑棗。<br /><br />我很喜歡鮮奶油,但雞蛋的顏色又能勾起食慾,在兩種不同選項前總要掙扎好久,最後慫恿媽媽買下樸實蛋糕的原因都是為了忍不住要拿下帶核的黑棗來吃的結果。<br /><br />台北新潮時髦的蛋糕店裡早就揚棄這樣顏色不討喜的食材,全都改用紫羅蘭色的葡萄、嬌豔欲滴的草莓、新鮮翠綠的奇異果了,一直到最近,才又在某些超市見到玻璃罐頭裝著的大顆黑棗,黑棗蛋糕卻再也沒能發現哪裡有賣。<br /><br />回來後終於查到布夫特爾Buchteln的原意是塞滿了果醬的酵母發酵小圓甜麵包(Buchteln, yeast buns filled with jam.),不知道果醬的口味是不是會隨著烹調人的心情與季節而有所變化?<br /><br />但我一直惦念著夜半時分吃到的那一碟蒸麵包,那內餡滿滿可口的黑棗醬。台北街頭的咖啡館十有八九會供應叫名「維也納」的咖啡,不過,哪時候也會有布夫特爾呢?</div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SGO_QpiQtSI/AAAAAAAAAIs/fLmEVKWIwAk/s1600-h/IMG_8847.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216223086173533474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SGO_QpiQtSI/AAAAAAAAAIs/fLmEVKWIwAk/s400/IMG_8847.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div></div></div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-27241276616077527712008-06-22T09:02:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:57.147-08:00Susur Lee馬尾主廚˙天香樓˙跳舞的味蕾<u><span style="color:#0000ff;"><br /></span></u><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />一般來說我極排斥所謂的Fusion料理,大約是因為接觸過的,若不是隨便在西餐裡加點東南亞菜系風味,不然就是胡搞生魚片,加上一堆詭異的醬汁就這樣端上來,算不算Fusion我是不太清楚啦!不過很難欣賞是真的。特別是一次在紐約一家據說十分有名又貴得驚人的餐廳裡,吃到邊烤得焦黑、中間鮮嫩,照說「應該」焦香兼具的鮪魚生魚片,不過一入口又鹹又酸,邊上焦黑的部分還趁亂滾上一圈「顆粒完整」的黑胡椒粒,嗆得我整整喝下一大杯水才沖掉那股奇怪的味道呀。<br /><br />所以這次亞都天香樓請來Susur Lee,世界前五十大明星主廚來做不中不西、中西合璧的Fusion料理,老實說是有點怕的。仔細檢查菜單,依這樣的食材,價格應該還算能接受,想了想,世界前五十大欸!就在這種迷思下,我…我…就這樣意志不堅地訂了位!<br /><br /><u><span style="color:#0000ff;"></span></u><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SF5-1_1cMfI/AAAAAAAAAIk/zObGmzNoYnA/s1600-h/IMG_4621.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214744884675359218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SF5-1_1cMfI/AAAAAAAAAIk/zObGmzNoYnA/s400/IMG_4621.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />好吃嗎? (以上是雞肝作成的迷你冷菜,放在超小蔥油餅子上)<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SF5-GgbW4UI/AAAAAAAAAIc/Wn2YCwwAkno/s1600-h/Untitled-1+copy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214744068790608194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SF5-GgbW4UI/AAAAAAAAAIc/Wn2YCwwAkno/s400/Untitled-1+copy.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SF553cZH4tI/AAAAAAAAAIU/SEx8U1SZooY/s1600-h/IMG_4636.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214739411962946258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SF553cZH4tI/AAAAAAAAAIU/SEx8U1SZooY/s400/IMG_4636.JPG" border="0" /></a> (以上是大酸大甜的結尾甜點,檸檬塔)<br /><br /><br />這樣說好了,如果您能夠試著想像一下,把鮮奶油加上些許酸奶打發,淋上波菜汁、滴上幾滴檸檬,加進芥茉粉,再把新鮮的山葵磨成汁一併混入,最後放上一點點吉利丁,出來的成品會是什麼樣?吃進嘴裡又是什麼味?<br /><br />又或著,如果把新鮮無比的生蠔居然煮熟了、混上越南式的炸米粉,配上宮保雞丁醬汁;更有可能把紅黃兩色西瓜切片,放上紫蘇花、豆薯末、紅蔥頭、海鹽、薑末搭配;還是煎得微焦的熟黃芒果搭上沾著巧克力醬汁的鮮嫩鴨肝?<br /><br />坦白說,這一頓晚餐雖然無可避免的還是有大量出菜時難免無法兼顧的火侯問題,這讓風味獨特的綠咖哩果仁薄荷羔羊排略有遜色,也讓明蝦的甜度有些流失。但是,毫無疑問的,Susur Lee的醬汁調配簡直一絕,繽紛的五味在嘴巴裡滋哩滋哩地跳起了舞,一忽兒是辛辣的探戈、一忽兒是柔美的華爾滋,完全招架不住地應接不暇,滋味豐富。<br /><br />我難得地沒有碰任何酒以佐餐,怕醉了舌頭,嚐不出一道筵席裡的人生百態。美妙的醬汁精準地以神奇比例調和,每一種元素都恰如其分地在菜餚中展現。有著香氣的苦味來自黃菊花瓣、甜鹹兼俱的味道是味增蓮藕豆瓣、有著臘腸香氣的西班牙火腿混著柴魚昆布的奇妙滋味……我感覺酸甜苦辣又一次在嘴裡跳舞。<br /><br />在一頓晚宴裏,彷彿吃過了一場人生。<br /><br /><br /><br /> 差不多就這個意思吧?<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SF54KLa338I/AAAAAAAAAIM/NYxuFWbu1Bs/s1600-h/IMG_4638.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5214737534801141698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SF54KLa338I/AAAAAAAAAIM/NYxuFWbu1Bs/s400/IMG_4638.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />關於Susur Lee來台的相關新聞 <a href="http://news.msn.com.tw/news817277.aspx">http://news.msn.com.tw/news817277.aspx</a></div><div><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-10922340682736689762008-06-19T03:39:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:57.697-08:00【維也納咖啡館週記】中央咖啡館的維也納炸豬排˙Wiener Schnitzel<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SFpTb8RQAQI/AAAAAAAAAIE/bCZc15PhTgU/s1600-h/IMG_0452.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213571258134823170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SFpTb8RQAQI/AAAAAAAAAIE/bCZc15PhTgU/s400/IMG_0452.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><div><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />配合『<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/">一次</a>』的【<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/search/label/%E7%B6%AD%E4%B9%9F%E7%B4%8D%E5%92%96%E5%95%A1%E9%A4%A8%E9%80%B1%E8%A8%98">維也納咖啡館週記</a>】,那麼順便也把在維也納咖啡館裏僅有的用餐經驗貢獻出來以供參考,老實講,沒什麼特別的,但是之後說不定會陸續提到的維也納糕點,可是一等一的好吃啊!<br /><br />維也納炸「肉」排,傳統的作法炸的應該是牛肉。歐洲炸豬排首先讓我想到的總是瑞士的藍帶豬排,是將起司塞在豬排裡,麵衣香脆金黃,餐刀切下就會流出已經融化的濃濃起司汁,當然做得好的很美味,但要做的不好,難吃起來還真是可以很難吃。<br /><br />傳統的維也納炸「肉」排應該是將薄薄的小牛肉片疊起、裹著麵衣下去炸,雖然不知道為什麼,現在維也納炸「肉」排多半用豬肉代替,某些餐廳裡也能吃到雞肉做的,甚至舊城區裡最有名的那間號稱「全維也納第一」的炸肉排餐館,使用的也都是豬肉,沒有深究原因,但我想,總不會是因為瘋牛症吧?(笑)<br /><br />旅行之前,總習慣先勾勒出味蕾地圖,在地圖上一個個標好目標,按圖索驥。<br /><br />「是不是該標入維也納炸肉排呢?」<br /><br />出發前我著實委決不下,按說炸肉排大約很難有什麼地方作的比日本的Tonkatsu香脆,更難有地方調味能比台灣的排骨便當精采,那麼,飛過大半地球浪費時間去吃明知大約不好吃的東西是什麼道理呢?<br /><br />我在「維也納炸肉排」旁的問號上打了個叉叉。想了一下,又把叉叉塗掉,補了個問號。<br /><br />「說不定不會難吃也很難講。」畢竟是很出名的食物,不試試看會不會說不過去?<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />「喏,這是維也納最有名的那間炸肉排餐廳。」久居維也納的朋友無可無不可的指著超級狹窄的古城區巷弄裡,一間只能用「人聲鼎沸」、有著深綠色屋頂的餐廳這樣說。<br /><br />我探頭看著鄰街的客人,每人桌前大約都有一盤不怎麼起眼的炸豬排和許多杯看起來很好喝的酒。另外,每個人穿得都很正式,像是在巴黎米其林等級餐廳用餐的架勢。<br /><br />朋友完全沒有停留的打算,啪啦啪啦地往前走去。<br /><br />「要不要吃看看?」雖然餐廳外排著一大堆的人,短時間大概是沒有位置。<br /><br />朋友轉回頭,淡淡地說:「你回去吃香雞排大概會比這個好吃一百倍。」<br /><br />不斷地回頭看著人滿為患的餐廳,我當然還是只能隨著朋友意志堅強的腳步往前走,坦白說,如果光就是看食客盤子裡乾乾瘦瘦的肉排,似乎也找不出非吃不可的理由。<br /><br /><br />附上最好吃維也納炸豬排餐廳招牌一張,穿過右邊的小小巷弄,餐廳就在左手邊<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5213569951306891154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SFpSP39MP5I/AAAAAAAAAH8/kggzGp37_Cg/s400/IMG_1821.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br />第二天我就到了<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/06/blog-post_6792.html">中央咖啡館</a>。<br /><br />如同在『<a href="http://yuhsingchen.blogspot.com/2008/06/blog-post_6792.html">一次</a>』裡說過的,那是又熱又累完全不得休息的一天。我喝下大半壺好心的鬍子侍者特別送來的水,便再沒有喝咖啡的慾望。但是咕嘟咕嘟地喝完水,肚子就咕嚕咕嚕地叫了起來,早就過了午餐時間,早餐吃了什麼呢?好像只有馬鈴薯片而已。我翻過菜單屬於咖啡的那一頁,研究起中央咖啡館每日都有、八塊歐元一份的當日套餐。<br /><br />今天的套餐是維也納炸豬排!<br /><br />今天沒有朋友意志堅強的阻擋,加上我深信飢餓是最美味的調味料,八元的套餐包含冷湯、沙拉和主餐,看起來似乎也還合算 (比昨天的餐廳便宜多了呀!),那麼當然毫無考慮的點了下去。<br /><br />然後呢?<br /><br />然後我深深慶幸點了不管怎麼樣都好喝的啤酒,這樣啤酒可以沖淡大概放了半瓶鹽的豬排;更慶幸水還剩下半壺,那麼在實在咬不動炸了大約半世紀之久的乾硬肉片時,還能夠像吞藥似地灌水嚥下。比較糟糕的是,在接下來未完成的維也納旅行中,我總不斷地思念起香雞排的美味。 </div></div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-13472118569117648322008-06-09T09:38:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:57.812-08:00維也納烤豬排。嗯,我要雙份<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SE1dJMnE9cI/AAAAAAAAAH0/Qlfc3-1a0tE/s1600-h/IMG_1267.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5209922756522866114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SE1dJMnE9cI/AAAAAAAAAH0/Qlfc3-1a0tE/s400/IMG_1267.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />老實說,我連該怎麼正確叫這道菜都不知道。是在維也納吃的,看來調理的方式是烤,食材是豬排,那麼,姑且便叫它「維也納烤豬排」好了。<br /><br />旅居維也納的日子裡,分外思念鮮翠欲滴的青蔬水果,內陸國家缺少魚鮮,青菜的種類也不多,買過一公斤實在便宜的櫻桃,一路邊走邊啃,勉強算是平撫稍許對於蔬果的需索。<br /><br />「今晚我們去新釀酒館。」<br /><br />在來維也納之前,每一本旅遊書上都清楚地標出新釀酒館區,雖然明知道是觀光客必去之地,但無論如何想去試試「人在酒莊」的氛圍。聽說一路上去兩旁都是酒家哪!不管怎麼說都不想錯過。這個想法在初到維也納時熾熱高張,然而隨著日子飛逝,慾望如同漏氣的球,日日消癟。<br /><br />維也納每日佐餐的飲料若不是紅白酒,便是極端美味的啤酒。這個地方,酒是好的沒話說,食物就不怎麼令人恭維。調味重,又酷愛油炸,若是配餐,啤酒絕對肯定是上上之選。<br /><br />「新釀酒館有什麼好吃的嗎?」<br /><br />「呃,我看先吃一點東西再去好了。」<br /><br />雖是這樣說,日日總在咖啡館消磨時光的我,在傍晚時分肚裡仍塞滿好吃得不能挑剔的維也納出名甜點,沒有餘力再吞下什麼。順著大塊大塊的鵝卵石子鋪成的路,懶散地在似乎永遠不會落下的夕陽光輝裏散步,就這樣走到瑞典廣場。天熱得很,但很舒適,我難得地喜歡陽光,溫暖而不炙人。<br /><br />在瑞典廣場跳上Before Sunrise裏的老式電車U4,一路順著多瑙運河,乘客來來去去,河邊的微風撲進車窗,帶來城市的氣息,甜的、咖啡香的,我舒服地坐臥在座位上,硬梆梆的泛黃木頭椅彷彿也像沙發般柔軟。<br /><br />電車緩緩地到達Heiligenstadt,那麼再轉搭公車38A上山,一路搖搖晃晃,經過了新釀酒館的集中地,再往上一些就到山頂。便是友人說「看維也納天際線最棒」的Cobenzl。<br /><br />維也納的天際線在眼前寬闊地呈現,將近夜裡九點,天仍濛濛亮著,維也納城安安靜靜地在腳下閃爍諸般燈火。我對著眼前的美景停不下手地拍,雖然明知道忘了帶腳架的結果,肯定無法如同一旁全副武裝也正在拍照的老先生。<br /><br />山頂的Cobenzl也有間嬌小可愛的咖啡屋,臨著山谷,俯瞰就是一地美景,可惜沒有什麼咖啡胃了。<br /><br />「如果不想又喝咖啡,那麼旁邊就剩一間餐廳,等下要喝酒,還是先吃點東西好了。」朋友這樣推薦據說也很有名氣的餐廳,其實也是酒莊,但料理比起下方那一長排酒家來得豐盛。<br /><br />「那一排騙觀光客錢的,只有加熱的小點心來的,一點也不可口呢!」<br /><br />老實說,如同前述的理由,我對於「料理比起下方那一長排酒家來得豐盛」可沒什麼期待。<br /><br />經過一番交涉,諳德語的友人回頭說,廚房關了,現在只剩下燒烤的東西可以叫,我們探頭看了正在戶外燒烤架上油淋淋的肉排,依樣葫蘆地點上一份,再加一個湯。兩個人剛好夠,特別還配上一公升的酒莊新酒。<br /><br />肉上來了。<br /><br />寫到此處,我停筆了好一會。寫文的此時是夜半,回想起那恰到好處、簡單的美味,我的肚子似乎又咕咕叫了起來。那夜風裏送上木桌的肉烤得剛剛好,富於鮮美肉汁,略略帶些許焦味,然而調味乾乾淨淨,一點也不花巧。據說奧地利人平日的食物便是烤肉,如果就是這樣,那麼並不被列入美食地區的奧地利,說不定最為董得食物的單純滋味。<br /><br />一塊食畢,壓根不餓的我,央求起已經收工的廚師再烤一塊。<br /><br />還要再說什麼呢?這是我在維也納最好的一餐嗎?<br /> <div></div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-51715450625112587232008-05-02T07:06:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:59.664-08:00去年十月的三星米其林盛宴˙亞都麗緻 巴黎1930廳<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsmO_tsWBI/AAAAAAAAAHs/dEN4bAPhvYI/s1600-h/IMG_1420.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195788634165106706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsmO_tsWBI/AAAAAAAAAHs/dEN4bAPhvYI/s400/IMG_1420.JPG" border="0" /></a> 為了某些原因,這兩天大約又要去亞都麗緻巴黎1930廳報到。雖然說在1930廳吃飯,坦白講,氣氛是有些做作,品味起來略有虛榮,與安東廳一樣,被彧馨列名在「慶祝」型餐廳,但也有完全不為任何目的,純粹為了吃而去的。<br /><br />少數裏的幾次,特別值得被提到的,大約去年十月那回號稱「米其林三星饗宴」可以算上一個。<br /><br />那是亞都特別舉辦的活動,請來的客座主廚是Joel Antunes,雖然說經歷完整,但嚴格來說,並不算是米其林三星的”主廚”,不過手藝亦很驚人。是許久以前的食記,為免失公允,除了記憶特別深刻之外,那麼便是貼圖+菜名就好了吧?<br /> <br />當然叫了酒,但這是助興而非主興呀。<br /><br />Foie Gras Terrine with Roasted Pear洋梨鴨肝凍<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBslyvtsWAI/AAAAAAAAAHk/F8Nlr-AsEqM/s1600-h/IMG_1421.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195788148833802242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBslyvtsWAI/AAAAAAAAAHk/F8Nlr-AsEqM/s400/IMG_1421.JPG" border="0" /></a> <br />實在很想再吃肥鵝肝,不過近來大多餐廳只提供鴨肝了,但這一道很棒,我仍記得冰涼滑順的滋潤口感。鴨肝配上水果,不論是洋梨蜜李、蘋果野苺,似乎是目前為止還不曾碰上地雷的絕妙組合。<br /><br />Lasagna of Baby Artichoke with Truffles松露千層朝鮮薊<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBslLPtsV_I/AAAAAAAAAHc/G8vZJvtSR5E/s1600-h/IMG_1425.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195787470228969458" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBslLPtsV_I/AAAAAAAAAHc/G8vZJvtSR5E/s400/IMG_1425.JPG" border="0" /></a> <br />松露味鮮不用說了,當然遠渡重洋而來的嬌客味道略有些逸失也無可奈何,不過量很足,所以不成缺點。<br /> <br />Baked flounder with crosnes and carrot-mustard broth<br />比目魚佐芥末胡蘿蔔汁<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsktftsV-I/AAAAAAAAAHU/HA_TDZGF3yk/s1600-h/IMG_1440.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195786959127861218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsktftsV-I/AAAAAAAAAHU/HA_TDZGF3yk/s400/IMG_1440.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />比目魚的肉質細嫩有嚼勁,不過彧馨個人並不偏好味道清淡的菜餚,雖然醬汁與主體搭配均衡,不過印象不鮮明。<br /><br />Roasted quail with raisin, bon shemeji mushroom, and ginger jus<br />燒烤薑味鵪鶉<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsjd_tsV9I/AAAAAAAAAHM/pHuLE4HlZ6U/s1600-h/IMG_1447.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195785593328261074" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsjd_tsV9I/AAAAAAAAAHM/pHuLE4HlZ6U/s400/IMG_1447.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />一直沒有辦法忘懷在曼哈頓上西城嚐過的鵪鶉,那是間以甜點聞名的糕餅餐廳,鵪鶉的作法是以焦糖裹上再烤,肚子裡塞近鵝肝醬,佐以半蒸熟的無花果及覆盆子醬汁。滋味濃郁。後來再回紐約,這道做工繁複的菜色已經不再供應,只能惋惜。薑味鵪鶉雖然不如曾經試過的層次豐富,不過也是調製難得的野味。<br /><br /></div><div>知道是牛排,不過實在不記得正式菜名,當然也不記得滋味,只記得尚稱柔嫩。<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsid_tsV8I/AAAAAAAAAHE/FFlEre6S11Q/s1600-h/IMG_1449.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195784493816633282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsid_tsV8I/AAAAAAAAAHE/FFlEre6S11Q/s400/IMG_1449.JPG" border="0" /></a> <br />蘋果塔&香草牛奶白巧克力冰淇淋<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsh2ftsV7I/AAAAAAAAAG8/pvExIVX4ONI/s1600-h/IMG_1455.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195783815211800498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsh2ftsV7I/AAAAAAAAAG8/pvExIVX4ONI/s400/IMG_1455.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Lemongrass soup with coconut sorbet and pineapple</div><div>香茅冷湯附椰子冰砂<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsheftsV6I/AAAAAAAAAG0/qDnxCwaWbaE/s1600-h/IMG_1456.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195783402894940066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsheftsV6I/AAAAAAAAAG0/qDnxCwaWbaE/s400/IMG_1456.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />印象深刻。<br /><br />很美的一道冷湯,焦化鳳梨下是椰奶味足的冰沙,嚐起來像沒有酒的Pina colada,而那是彧馨一直很喜愛的飲料呢!<br /><br /><br />Hazelnut Chocolate Napolean榛果巧克力酥附焦糖冰淇淋<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsg_ftsV5I/AAAAAAAAAGs/mJEWq1_kdw0/s1600-h/IMG_1464.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195782870318995346" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsg_ftsV5I/AAAAAAAAAGs/mJEWq1_kdw0/s400/IMG_1464.JPG" border="0" /></a> <br />這是主廚出來答禮時厚著臉皮硬是用生硬法語夾雜英語閒聊天後,主廚特別致贈的,彧馨張望四周,還真是只招待我,雖然不好意思,不過是比蘋果塔還要能吸引人的甜點呢!主廚在曼哈頓要開一間新餐廳,記得說是今年三月,那麼如無意外,應該已經開張。<br /><br />哪時回紐約看看?<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsggPtsV4I/AAAAAAAAAGk/7rgpgOQWpmw/s1600-h/IMG_1469.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195782333448083330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/SBsggPtsV4I/AAAAAAAAAGk/7rgpgOQWpmw/s400/IMG_1469.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />記得餐後轉往一樓點了杯波特酒,一邊直嘆不用晚餐了,不過當晚居然去吃了好記,人的胃納真是深不可側呢!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4250803977379610998.post-86381943399005077982008-04-06T10:03:00.000-07:002008-12-09T11:06:59.678-08:00築地市場˙うまい鮨勘的穴子魚蓋飯<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/R_kDzUgMYyI/AAAAAAAAAGc/A_bm6mxwRxg/s1600-h/IMG_2878.JPG"></a><br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/R_kDFEgMYxI/AAAAAAAAAGU/XEGA0jtzfYM/s1600-h/IMG_2883.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186179831536837394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FMdHmXuqbsQ/R_kDFEgMYxI/AAAAAAAAAGU/XEGA0jtzfYM/s400/IMG_2883.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Copyright © Jas Chen<br /><br />那是一種感動的滋味。<br /><br />每次前往香港與築地市場,都恨不得能長出四個胃,好一次把所有想吃的、能吃的,一間一間地吃、一攤一攤地逛完。我總是認真翻閱築地美食指南、築地電視冠軍介紹、必吃築地五十間等等諸多「聖經」,努力地擇選,到底哪些是該放進有限的肚子裡的呢?或著乾脆想,怎麼不乾脆搬到築地來住一陣子算了呀?而在這些垂涎嚮往中,穴子魚蓋飯,從來沒有在任何一個白是夢裡冒出頭過。<br /><br />穴子魚蓋飯,是不小心碰上的、美味的意外。<br /><br /><br />在一個快將肚子氣飽的早晨裡前往築地。<br /><br />不管前一晚是如何商量規劃,一同在東京旅行的B,在鬧鐘響過一個多小時後、在我早已打點好準備出發、也已經叫喊無數次的噪音喧擾下,依舊將頭緊緊地黏在枕上,無論如何不肯起床。不得不等著,我雖然喜歡一個人旅行,可從來不喜歡一個人吃飯,再說,要去的是築地哪!不找人分著吃,那麼怎麼樣才能夠吃得完呢?<br /><br />無奈地坐在東京飯店狹窄的房間裡,埋著頭再次排定今日行程、順便清點味蕾渴望的長串名單,或說 To Eat List。回想上一次去築地嘗試的壽司”早早餐”。那回是清晨六點進入大和壽司,那已然是排了將近四十分鐘的結果。大和的單人份握壽司滋味鮮美,極端新鮮的魚料、層次豐盛的海味、溫熱的壽司飯,將略有寒意的東京清晨打點的無比華麗。念及此,萬再不能忍耐,雖然把B打包好扔出門實在是一件累人的工作,我也忍不住完全喪失淑女風範,連拖帶拉硬是將不慣早起的友人B踢出房門。<br /><br />經歷過走錯路、坐錯車、最後不得不叫計程車等種種風波所引發的不滿情緒 (怎麼愛賴床又不認路還不聽話呢?乖乖坐大江戶線不就得了?少吃了很多東西哪!),氣終於在一連串的美食小店裡、在陣陣叫賣聲中、張張引人食慾的料理照片裡逐漸平息。開始擔心的是十點才抵達市場,二個小時的時間,肚子裡到底可以裝下些什麼呢?<br /><br />按圖索驥,我吞下一碗驚人美味的海膽蓋飯、喝了一杯魚市場裡古舊咖啡館的老滋味咖啡、嚐了挺奇怪的雞蛋燉菜、好吃得沒有話講的手工布丁、當成零嘴扔進嘴裡的一大塊厚燒蛋捲(還吃完了)……心裡想著的是,如果時間充足的話、如果一大早就到的話、那麼應該還可以再吃蓋著滿滿新鮮炸物的天婦羅蓋飯、可以再切一整盤的鮪魚刺身、有間迴轉壽司料好又實在,還有間專賣小碗的鮭魚親子蓋飯……完全不考慮可憐的肚子正為這些可怕名單哀哀抗議著。<br /><br />然而沒有時間了,只剩下可以再吃一間的時間額度,和一個要費盡力氣才能塞進些什麼的肚子。<br /><br />「我還想吃壽司欸!」B這般說。<br /><br />我已經吃過超美味壽司了。當然還想再吃,不過如果只能再挑一間,那麼這次想嚐點別的。坦白說,應該也吃不了一人份握壽司,單點可行,不過看著壽司名店前長長的人龍和窄小的店鋪,我指指手錶,暗示B不用作名店「壽司大」的夢了。「我還是想吃壽司欸!」B很堅持,他還是第一次來築地,有種非吃壽司不可的衝動。「這是築地欸,哪家都好吃吧?」<br /><br />應該不算太挑吃的B看著一間頗有些規模的壽司店面,指指門外照片菜單上的單人份壽司。其實想試當時全東京唯一還有賣牛肉蓋飯(由於牛隻檢疫問題之故,當時日本大多吉野家停止販售牛肉類餐點)的築地吉野家,不過到了築地不讓B試試壽司似乎說不過去呀!<br /><br />「請給我一份穴子魚蓋飯。」B點完他的握壽司,我翻遍菜單做了這個決定。<br /><br />在漫畫將太的壽司裡看過關於穴子魚,也就是星鰻的料理煮法,但一直沒有吃過,那麼現在有機會能嘗試也不錯,再說,肚子飽飽的,來點重口味的料理說不定比較能入口,而且一份不過840円,真要很糟也不至於太傷心。<br /><br />女侍送上一碗跟照片菜單一模一樣、毫無軒輊的中碗蓋飯上來。我瞥了一眼B的壽司,遠不如在大和的精采,那麼我眼前一盅鮮黃油亮的星鰻,又會是什麼滋味呢?<br /><br />撥開堆著的山葵泥,夾了半片穴子入口,滿是甜香。穴子魚肉細致,吸滿了飽飽的甜滷醬汁,醬味的甜滋滋彷彿來自各式海鮮清新甘美的離水瞬間,甜味馨香、毫不膩人,魚肉的豐腴完全襯托出醬汁的濃重,搭上一些提味的山葵、配著顆粒飽滿的日本米……原本打算嚐嚐味道也就是,不多虐待可憐的腸胃,然而起身離開之際,碗底已然盡空。<br /><br />「好簡單的滋味哪!」離開時不禁如此想著,簡單厚重,規規矩矩地展現滋味,卻讓人這樣感動。<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />某日身處在日本北方的某個魚市場,吃著與時節不搭的生鮮海鮮蓋飯。小市場隨意搭著棚子,轉頭便毫無遮攔地可以看見棚外的落雪,我裹著厚重羽絨衣、吃的偏偏是冒著冷氣的刺身,有點孤獨,有點寒冷。想起了在南方也是魚市場的築地,嘴裡不覺出現記憶中溫暖甜蜜的星鰻香氣。<br /><br />擱下筷子,怔怔地分辨著在寒冷北地最為想念的溫暖美好。<br /><br /><br />那是一種感動的滋味。<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div>Jasminehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09003937807854866632noreply@blogger.com4